film-format Any film shooters here?
- Thread starter shimabuku
- Start date
I wish, but can't afford. If I could choose, I wanted to check out 16mm for fun. I also bought a Super 8 camera I have yet to use.
I still shoot film occasionally. I own two 16mm and five super8 cameras.
I used to shoot film every day as a 16mm news cameraman and LOVED IT. There was real skill in choosing which film stock was best to use, selecting filters to correct the lighting, and using a light meter to set the F-stop...not to mention setting up the lights and taking care of the sound. We shot more film in a week then most non-news cameramen shot in a year. We also had to edit what we shot, and everything ran the same day that we shot it. What a terrific training ground it was. Back then a 400ft roll of film cost about $35.00 including processing. Today a 400ft roll will set you back about $300.00 (A 400ft roll is 12 minutes worth of film). Today there are video editing systems that mimic the look of 8mm and 16mm film, so there isn't much point in spending a fortune on film stock. I ran across this film price list which you may find interesting. (click here)
What film stock would you recommend for a first timer? I've been researching, but my confusion is in the exposure ratings? Is Vision 3 200T good? Or is there something cheaper to start with?
Also, how do you handle development of the film? You use an external business, or do you do it yourself?
Your choice of film stock depends largely on what you are likely to film. Outdoor film can only be used outdoors, and indoor (tungston) film can only be used indoors. (unless you use a filter). Each film stock has an ASA rating or T rating which indicates its sensitivity to light. The higher the number, the less light you need. Also, there is negative film stock and reversal film stock. Reversal film stock can be projected immediately after processing. Negative film stock needs to be re-printed before you can project it. If you are going to have your film immediately transferred to digital for viewing and editing, it doesn't matter whether you use negative or reversal stock. As for processing the film, most of the film vendors now sell package deals which includes the film stock, processing, and transferring the processed film to a hard drive for viewing and editing. Such package deals can be found at https://www.spectrafilmandvideo.com/Film.html
Vision 3 stock is the best. It is also the most expensive.
Vision 3 stock is the best. It is also the most expensive.
This are some of my finished super-8mm films from past decades.
Regular 16mm is cool... ULTRA 16mm is punk rock.... I have Kinor 16 and I filed the gate to make it wide screen. Ultra 16 is so close to Super 16 that you can't tell the difference.... 1. Get a cheap Regular 16mm on Ebay and file the gate to make it ultra (DO IT YOURSELF CAREFULLY, SUPER FINE SAND PAPER, LEATHER etc... LEARN HOW). 2. Storyboard, Previs movie. 3. Rehearse/Shoot on digital, edit to check flow. 4. Re-shoot on film ONE TAKE. 5. Ship film to Cinelab to develop and transfer film to hard drive... 6. Edit your amazing film production that makes you buzz inside....... Pay as you go. Real movie making is better than film school.