color-grading Amazing Color Correction and Grading Test

light is light whether it's 1, 24 or 30 pictures per second. Shooting neutral doesn't necessarily mean shooting flat. I refers to making sure you have as mush image information as possible in your image to work with later... which generally means throwing light on the subject to match the background brightness and adding light to the shadows to be able to capture detail in them.

This also doesn't mean a FLAT image, I light this way, but still have 3 distinct exposure zones to play with in color grading. This means I have highlights (driving them right around 90-100 IRE) enough above the mids (skin @ 80-85 IRE for caucasian skin, down to 60-65 IRE for dark skin) to keep them separate in the 3-way color correctors without blowing past 100% White unless completely unavoidable... then I make sure my shadows are throwing around 25-55 IRE so they float on the blacks slider in the CC filter. This allows me to shove them around separately to get the look I want while having enough information that I can lighten them slightly if necessary or drop them to black to get a moodier look. I do let stuff touch 0 IRE and some darker depending on the shot, but I still have 3 strongly defined zones to work with later.
 
light is light whether it's 1, 24 or 30 pictures per second. Shooting neutral doesn't necessarily mean shooting flat. I refers to making sure you have as mush image information as possible in your image to work with later... which generally means throwing light on the subject to match the background brightness and adding light to the shadows to be able to capture detail in them.

This also doesn't mean a FLAT image, I light this way, but still have 3 distinct exposure zones to play with in color grading. This means I have highlights (driving them right around 90-100 IRE) enough above the mids (skin @ 80-85 IRE for caucasian skin, down to 60-65 IRE for dark skin) to keep them separate in the 3-way color correctors without blowing past 100% White unless completely unavoidable... then I make sure my shadows are throwing around 25-55 IRE so they float on the blacks slider in the CC filter. This allows me to shove them around separately to get the look I want while having enough information that I can lighten them slightly if necessary or drop them to black to get a moodier look. I do let stuff touch 0 IRE and some darker depending on the shot, but I still have 3 strongly defined zones to work with later.

Very good post, but in this case I think he was referring to the picture profile he was shooting with, having sharpness, contrast and saturation turned down in camera.
 
I have a Canon XL1s... I recommend also turning down sharpness (the camera adds digital sharpening if you don't) and the Saturation (to stop colors from overdriving in their respective channels to allow for greater overall latitude). So this really is a general technique that can improve your ability to manipulate the pictures in post. As for contrast, I think that's better to reduce in lighting than in camera... to allow more control over the contrast being captured.
 
I don't know. I'm awful partial to my Canon custom presets so there isn't much color correcting to do in post. I guess the main benefit to shooting "Flat" or factory presets would be the ability to change your mind in post without drastic measures being required.

Call me flawed, but I like to know how it's going to look - within reason - before the shoot.
 
I don't know. I'm awful partial to my Canon custom presets so there isn't much color correcting to do in post. I guess the main benefit to shooting "Flat" or factory presets would be the ability to change your mind in post without drastic measures being required.

Call me flawed, but I like to know how it's going to look - within reason - before the shoot.

Im a big supporter of getting the look as much in camera as you can. Nothing wrong with that. Its better if one can do that and just have minimalist correction in post.

Sometimes, depending on the equipment, it turns out to get the look you want, its better to get it in post, so then you shoot with the appropriate camera settings to be able to do that. So neutral and flat have their places.

People who do it to give themselves more options in the post or to avoid mistakes, imho, either have not prepared enough to know the final image they want or dont have the confidence in their abilities as a cinematographer. Bc if you know what you are doing, it is better to get the image as much in camera so there is less degradation in post work.

I guess its the same as the RAW vs jpeg debate in photography. Thankfully one can shoot raw+jpeg so not a major issue there.

PS

With DSLR's, its a bit of different matter bc the limitations it imposes often makes it a better choice to shoot neutral or flat.
 
I tend to actually get my "Look" in camera as much as possible while edging toward my particular post workflow. I've found a nice balance that I now get nearly instinctually when lighting a set and shooting. I'm mostly happy with my current workflow that combines the 2 methodologies. It allows me to post fast if necessary (competitions and so forth), but also gives me the data to work with later to do a fully graded release for other events where I have more time to work on the color and sound.
 
Very nice, although, the grading is somewhat stark at times.

That's one of the things that can happen when you don't use magic bullet correctly.

I usually just see two kinds of ppl, ones who hate magic bullet (and think only amateurs use it) and ones who love it (and think its the answer to their color grading issues).

It is neither. I think its another good tool which should be used and customized heavily for your purpose.

The things to remember about magic bullet are:

1. The presets are just a starting point, not something you click on to have ur end result.

2. Or if you like an exact preset look, then you need to shoot for the preset so it falls the way it should on it. Even then, some tinkering has to be done.

I know you know all this, Paper. I just wanted to put it out there.
 
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