Although I know you have probably figured this out, I'm going to use this picture to illustrate the MOST important part of your jib... The two pieces that comprise the arm HAVE TO BE EQUALLY DISTANT ON EITHER END. the parallelogram is what makes the far end stay level when you lower/raise the boom. If you make one end shorter than the other, it'll either move faster or slower when it raises/lowers.
The jib in this picture, when raised would probably tilt upwards rather than staying level... had the camera end been shorter than the control end, it would tilt upwards as you raised the arm. Rhombii are bad for you (unless you want that specific effect, but there's alot of math to make sure the amount of tilt is what you're looking for before you build it --- although adjustable is what mine is with the cable, so I can just change the tension of my turnbuckles to lengthen/shorten the top part of the arm.
That was just to make the head tilt when the boom was raised or lowered, (It does look and is exagerated in such short lenght. The head channel is much longer (About twice) than the fork space, so it's very pronounced-- I was trying to power it, so I made the boom/tilt ratio a super short travel to try to have more mechanical control and less drive train linkage to get the most out of the power source), but it's worth pointing out for sure.
So here is my plans for my crane. If my knowledge about physics is right, turning the smaller pulley will transfer into a slower motion on the big pulley.
Good work on the sketch, buttttt, can you do like an over head and/or side view (and/or lable stuff) ?
I don't see (Understand) right off how it works exactaly, yet.
(You'll be a wiz at the sketches by the time you build it.)
sure can... im looking for different software now. my sketch looked pretty cool as a Bitmap then i uploaded it and im pretty sure that myspace converted it into a jpeg because it looks like crap now.