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t2i for action scene

Looking to get a camera for my first project.

Woudld t2i be a good choice for fast paced action scene, like a person running through the street, where there is a lot of focus change? I've read that t2i doesn't have autofocus, so it kind of worries me :-S
 
Well, you wouldn't want auto focus anyway so no worries there. But you might want to look at some "rolling shutter" sample clips to get an idea what CMOS cameras look like during fast motion of subject or camera.
 
shoot... this rolling shutter would be a big issue..

I've noticed that pretty much every 3CCD camera is little too pricey.. good hd cameras start off at 1700 :( time to start saving!
 
Ya, DSLRs won't be your choice for high action. The rolling shutter is an issue. But on the flip-side, I've spoken to several DPs that don't mind the slight jello effect at all. It's pretty subtle on most shots, and to be quite honest, the audience probably ain't gonna give a shit. It's us snobs that care.

But still...I wouldn't go DSLR if I was shooting an action flick.
 
Ya, DSLRs won't be your choice for high action. The rolling shutter is an issue. But on the flip-side, I've spoken to several DPs that don't mind the slight jello effect at all. It's pretty subtle on most shots, and to be quite honest, the audience probably ain't gonna give a shit. It's us snobs that care.

But still...I wouldn't go DSLR if I was shooting an action flick.


Some of it is tactics as well. Like the Jello being less noticeable from the head on or behind you can plan your shots so that this is controlled. It won't matter anyway as DSLR becomes more popular to do this it'll just be removed at the editing board. You already can do it manually if you remove a few of the worst jello frames.
 
Ya, it's one of those things that might grow on people and become "normal" if global shutter CMOS doesn't come to the DSLR market soon.

Heck, I even heard second hand of a director really liking the partial frame shearing that happens when a CMOS camera (any, including red) records a flash from a still camera or similar event. That's kinda daffy.
 
Ya, DSLRs won't be your choice for high action. The rolling shutter is an issue. But on the flip-side, I've spoken to several DPs that don't mind the slight jello effect at all. It's pretty subtle on most shots, and to be quite honest, the audience probably ain't gonna give a shit. It's us snobs that care.

But still...I wouldn't go DSLR if I was shooting an action flick.

I agree with all of this.

The T2i doesn't have auto-focus. The 60D will, and it's just a couple hundred dollars more (though, in my honest opinion, I wouldn't auto-focus, even in an action scene).
 
The 60D will, and it's just a couple hundred dollars more (though, in my honest opinion, I wouldn't auto-focus, even in an action scene).

Right?

What cracks me up about this is that there was a long time where folks where clamoring for manual focus on inexpensive DV cameras, but now we want to go back to auto-focus all of the sudden just because the option is missing from movie mode in current DSLRs?

@ OP:

Sorry, I didn't notice that your question was about focus and not the camera in general. Auto-focus won't help you in that situation. Find someone with experience pulling focus, or practice a lot. This is doubly true if you are trying to hit shallow fields on the open end of the lens on those cameras.
 
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What cracks me up about this is that there was a long time where folks where clamoring for manual focus on inexpensive DV cameras, but now we want to go back to auto-focus all of the sudden just because the option is missing from movie mode in current DSLRs?
.

True.

T dont know why everyone is so preoccupied with equipment and not with film making.

Thinking about all this,

I could either go with ":haha:"

or

I could go with ":crazy::bang:"
 
True.

T dont know why everyone is so preoccupied with equipment and not with film making.

Thinking about all this,

I could either go with ":haha:"

or

I could go with ":crazy::bang:"


Its a slow learning curve for us, new kids ;)

====OFF TOPIC RAMPBLING

I have a friend who really wanted to learn how to play drums. Instead of getting two drum sticks, and couple of plastic plates to learn the basics, he went to the guitar center and purchased $2k electronic drum set lol. Of course, the drum set was collecting dust 2 months later..:lol: I still give him crap for it..

Thats how I think a new person approaches something like a filmmaking.

Us, the new kids (i assume its not just me, according to many technical questions in "newbie" forum), think that in order to make a good and watchable film, we need to get the most awesome, most expensive gear (including 50 dollar camera lens tissue).

I've already learned that way is WRONG, and think I was fortunate enough to learn that prior to purchasing ANY equipment. In fact, if it wasn't for this forum, I would save up a heavy roll of cash, find , and buy Canon XL-H1sP as my first camera lol. Of course, thats a route to disaster..

===========

Anyways, I was just looking at different options and possibilities. My current camera is hitachi miniDVD. Spent the last month playing with DIY lights, different shot compositions, sound recording etc. Now, i was lucky enough to get my itchy hands on some extra cash (damn mandatory over time on my job lol) to get something more or less serious video equipment..

My first choice was t2i, but, as i've learned, its not good for what intent to use it for (dark area shots, fast paces action). My next choice is XL1.. its goes for 1k on amazon.

Yay or Nay?
 
Dark area shots? Uhh, what? No better camera than the T2i. Except for the 7D or 5D.

I love your attitude, by the way, as far as not needing to start out with the most expensive camera.
 
part of the reality of equipment.. nothing is perfect. You make a choice with the information you have, the next day youll learn something new that will cause you to place a half inch deep palm print on your forehead, and then you move on. Learn the limits of your gear, learn to work around them, turn those weaknesses into strengths. Get a few good years out of your equipment, then upgrade KNOWING what you really want.. with a deeper supply of applicable common sense..
 
In my experience with a T2i, the jello effect happens only in horizontal movement, and I'm pretty sure it only happens horizontally because of the way the shutter works, but don't quote me on that.

Also the low-light thing all depends on your lens, the kit lens that it comes with 18-55mm 3.5-5.6 isn't good for low-light shooting, that's for sure, but if you invest in a better lens like the 50mm 1.8 or 1.4 or even 1.2, then you won't have that problem.

In terms of pulling focus, if you want to act in your own films, then I suggest learning how to pull focus, then teaching it to one of your friends, because they'll need to do it fast and on the fly especially for an action shot.

Good luck!
 
part of the reality of equipment.. nothing is perfect. You make a choice with the information you have, the next day youll learn something new that will cause you to place a half inch deep palm print on your forehead, and then you move on. Learn the limits of your gear, learn to work around them, turn those weaknesses into strengths. Get a few good years out of your equipment, then upgrade KNOWING what you really want.. with a deeper supply of applicable common sense..

This is very good advice.
 
In my experience with a T2i, the jello effect happens only in horizontal movement, and I'm pretty sure it only happens horizontally because of the way the shutter works, but don't quote me on that.

Also the low-light thing all depends on your lens, the kit lens that it comes with 18-55mm 3.5-5.6 isn't good for low-light shooting, that's for sure, but if you invest in a better lens like the 50mm 1.8 or 1.4 or even 1.2, then you won't have that problem.

In terms of pulling focus, if you want to act in your own films, then I suggest learning how to pull focus, then teaching it to one of your friends, because they'll need to do it fast and on the fly especially for an action shot.

Good luck!

True dat. Though, I wouldn't call shooting at f3.5 a "problem". It's still better than the vast majority of traditional video cameras, if not all of them.
 
True dat. Though, I wouldn't call shooting at f3.5 a "problem". It's still better than the vast majority of traditional video cameras, if not all of them.

You're right, for video it should still be fine, but for photography, especially without a tripod (too poor atm to buy my own, borrowing a buddy of mines) it's a mess.

Canon's 'nifty-fifties' are amazing lenses, and the 1.8 is pretty cheap too.
 
True dat. Though, I wouldn't call shooting at f3.5 a "problem". It's still better than the vast majority of traditional video cameras, if not all of them.

For day exteriors, an f3.5 is absolutely fine, but I usually like to open it up a bit when I'm inside as I like the effect of it.

One thing that's worth bringing up here is the fact that lenses usually look their best when stopped down a little - a lens that's wide open at f3.5 will generally look a fair bit sharper at f4. I did an exterior night shoot recently, with relatively low wattage lighting, using a Canon 50mm f1.4 - I don't think I ever opened it up more than f2/f1.8 or so, so I could have got away with the Canon 50mm 1.8, which is substantially cheaper (though the 1.4 isn't my lens), but having the extra two-thirds of a stop on the lens meant I could have a sharper image.

Of course, if it's the difference between getting a shot and not then open that lens up as wide as it'll go - but a faster lens does more than just let you shoot in lower light.
 
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