Support system, Matte Box and Follow Focus for T2i

I will eventually (as I collect some money) equip my T2i with the subjected gear.

I really like those from micro, namely:
microSupport system for microMatteBox
microMatteBox Standard Bundle
microFollowFocus v2


some confusing things there that I still need to clarify weather not here, but with micro. However, I would like to know if there are other brands you can suggest that have a better quality to price ratio.

BTW, does follow focus require power to operate?
 
I would rather shoot like a cinematographer than look like one ;) .
I will try to achieve both, but "shoot like a cinematographer" is my priority.
That means, to my mind, to have first of all good lenses/primes, a good tripod and so on. But maybe you already own those things.
I own good tripod, dolly, production sound kit, decent lights. Also purchased Canon T2i, but it not yet arrived. Plan to purchase Canon 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM EF-S Lens and an external monitor by the end of August. And finally will get DSLR Cinema Bundle by the end of October.
I´ve heard, that the "ikan" monitors are good. I own a portable DVD-player, but I will replace it as soon as I can. It is heavy and big, but the quality is okay. I haven´t tested it with a DSLR, just with my old DIY 35mm adapter, but with its 7" it was big enough to pull the focus.
Are these calibrated monitors? I can get 7' screen on eBay for 1/3 of ikan's price. Is it a quality or features make them pricey?
 
Ah, so you want your rig to look as legit as possible so you can impress the higher-ups? :)
I am not in the US (as you may already realized) and indie-cinematography is not developed in my country at all. I want and need a buzz, attention, press to put me not as "a man with a camera takes some pictures", but "a cinematography crew shooting film"
Well, not sure what to tell ya--find the cheapest parts overseas. There are some great deals from India and such...
I am not after a cheap parts JUST FOR LOOK. I need a quality staff that really WORKS and I need technical support and so on.
10" monitor is great, especially for a camera mounted option. But 7" will do its job also...anything bigger than the small LCD screen on the camera.

As far as color and brightness, yes you can tweak the settings also I assume...just try and get a monitor that is as close as possible to final image capture.
Since I plan to purchase one from eBay, there is no such possibility for me to tweak and check its settings. What I have here is a variety of 7' screens to mount in a car. But these screens are part of a sound system and are not sold separately.
 
David--excellent info. Thank you. Especially the part about matte boxes--thank you for the lesson.

Always welcome. As a side note, I don't mean to sound like a pedantic jerk. Been ill the last couple of days and that's perhaps affected my delivery somewhat. ;)

Are these calibrated monitors? I can get 7' screen on eBay for 1/3 of ikan's price. Is it a quality or features make them pricey?

Are you sure that you mean "calibrated?" Perhaps I am borrowing too much from my IT experience, but monitor calibration is a process that involves tuning the monitor output under a given set of lighting conditions using reference from whatever scanner and printer are also connected so that all three work in harmony to create a "what you see is what you get" design environment. Let's say you calibrated your monitor at home, under fluorescent light. When you take it outside under daylight it will look different.

I guess high end displays for production have undergone some sort of calibration at the factory. At the same time, any decent monitor is going to give you a few controls that you can adjust during some testing so that what is displayed on your monitor is a more accurate representation of exposure, color, etc.

I've used 7" no-name monitors, 7" Ikan monitors, and 7-8" Marshall monitors. Given the budget I would go with the Marshalls. The no-name ones are just ugly, imho.

The no-name monitors are not going to give you accurate color rendition or be sharp enough to accurately judge focus. Of course, since you are only viewing an SD out on the t2i the quality of monitor becomes less of an issue as you are not going to be able to trust that output for anything except framing. It won't be exposure, color, or focus accurate on the SD feed.

I would still recommend popping a little extra for your monitor. As you move along you will eventually buy another camera body, and the accessories you get now should be quality enough to work with your next body. Otherwise you're buying all over again.
 
I am not in the US (as you may already realized) and indie-cinematography is not developed in my country at all. I want and need a buzz, attention, press to put me not as "a man with a camera takes some pictures", but "a cinematography crew shooting film"

I am not after a cheap parts JUST FOR LOOK. I need a quality staff that really WORKS and I need technical support and so on.

Since I plan to purchase one from eBay, there is no such possibility for me to tweak and check its settings. What I have here is a variety of 7' screens to mount in a car. But these screens are part of a sound system and are not sold separately.

Sorry, sorry, and sorry.
 
the higher end field monitors provide focusing aids, overscan\underscan, and for calibration some built in color bars or other reference for matching to the incoming signal.

Also, the option to use camera batteries (the iKans are famous for that) so you can have just one type of battery to power your camera and the monitor...

Home this help..
 
I guess high end displays for production have undergone some sort of calibration at the factory. At the same time, any decent monitor is going to give you a few controls that you can adjust during some testing so that what is displayed on your monitor is a more accurate representation of exposure, color, etc.

I've used 7" no-name monitors, 7" Ikan monitors, and 7-8" Marshall monitors. Given the budget I would go with the Marshalls. The no-name ones are just ugly, imho.
Marshall HD monitors are way too expensive in comparison with Ikan. I will probably go with this one. However, I wonder how HD picture will be delivered through a Composite (RCA) Input. I thought HDMI is a must for High Resolution.
I would still recommend popping a little extra for your monitor. As you move along you will eventually buy another camera body, and the accessories you get now should be quality enough to work with your next body. Otherwise you're buying all over again.
Maybe in a year or two I will get 5D Mark II or something similar.
 
Focus pulling is a very large topic and could encompass a thread unto itself. Knowing distance from image plane to subject is only the very beginning of the equation. Measuring for marks is not always an option, and because EF and EF-S lenses will mechanically spin past critical/infinity (ring without hard stops, doesn't change focus past these points) marks might suddenly be off if you are not careful.
Sorry, I am confused. Do you mean the rotation speed can affect the way lenses are spinning?
Also, if you are operating and pulling, marks will be useless as you won't be able to see where they are on the ff wheel.
I will definitely have an assistant to pull focus.
 
Also, the option to use camera batteries (the iKans are famous for that) so you can have just one type of battery to power your camera and the monitor...

Good point. I actually thing there is even more versatile solution, like rechargeable battery packs that can be used as a prolonged source to power camera and monitor.
 
I will definitely have an assistant to pull focus.

Oh, boy. I'm starting to realize that you have absolutely no clue how deep the pool is that you're planning on jumping into.

I'm not talking trash. I honestly am glad that you've entered into this indie filmmaking community. But dude, you need to slow your horses. I'm just trying to protect you from having shit blow up in your face.

Think big. But start small.
 
Listen to Mr. Funk. Spend your money on a LCD viewfinder magnifier thing.. its all the range, works better and looks MORE pro.

An external monitor will only be good for playback with that camera. It WONT show HD video during recording, so it wont be good for focus. It will be ok for framing. The monitor you picked is ONLY SD, NOT HD, and will NEVER show HD video.
 
Sorry, I am confused. Do you mean the rotation speed can affect the way lenses are spinning?

I will definitely have an assistant to pull focus.

An assistant is a good call if you can find one who can pull blind.

What I mean is that the amount of distance that the lens rotates to focus from 5 feet to 6 feet is farther on the lens barrel than from 20 feet to 40 feet. That is just an example.

Since your camera won't give you hd out, a nicer monitor at this time just future proofs your investment. The difference between the Marshall and the Ikan is worth it in my opinion.

Ultimately, you have to decide how to get the best long term use out of your money.

I also agree that in the near term a small monitor is not going to be useful for focus. Wheat and Cracker have the right suggestion on the viewfinder idea.

I only mention the Marshall because I don't see the value in buying something only to need to replace it prematurely.
 
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Ya...if you're going DSLR...go with a monitor that will latch onto your rig.

Also, if I'm not mistaken, when you plug a monitor into most DSLRs, it shuts the LCD screen off and only displays to the monitor correct? Well, this would make it impossible for the camera op/DP to get an accurate idea of what they are shooting--you need the monitor on the rig.
 
Do the Marshal monitors offer aids, like peaking and zebra stripes? I was sad when I discovered that my camera would not output those aids on to the external HD monitor.. (canon hfs100)

Not sure. The only newish one I've used doesn't seem to, though in a pinch I have used it for eye marks. Come to think of it, the only Ikan monitors I have used have been a couple of years old. Maybe they have better offerings than they used to?
 
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