Support system, Matte Box and Follow Focus for T2i

R

Re-Maker

I will eventually (as I collect some money) equip my T2i with the subjected gear.

I really like those from micro, namely:
microSupport system for microMatteBox
microMatteBox Standard Bundle
microFollowFocus v2

some confusing things there that I still need to clarify weather not here, but with micro. However, I would like to know if there are other brands you can suggest that have a better quality to price ratio.

BTW, does follow focus require power to operate?
 
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I'm sorry, I don't have an answer to your question. But I have to ask -- do you already own the T2i, or are you planning on buying one? If you are planning on buying one, and you're planning on getting some nice accessories (that cost more than the freaking camera), then you've clearly got a little money to play with. Why not step up to a 5D?
 
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Cracker Funk said:
I'm sorry, I don't have an answer to your question. But I have to ask -- do you already own the T2i, or are you planning on buying one? If you are planning on buying one, and you're planning on getting some nice accessories (that cost more than the freaking camera), then you've clearly got a little money to play with. Why not step up to a 5D?
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I purchased T2i TODAY :) Body only, since I have an access to my friends kit lens, besides I want to purchase a faster lens next month.
Let me try DSLR shooting with T2i first. If I happen to have money for 5D in the future, then T2i will become "B" camera. :)
 
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I am looking for some literature about follow focus use.

I have once participated during feature film production and remember camera assistant always measured a distance from camera to the object and adjusted follow focus. What this measuring is all about?
 
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Re-Maker said:
I am looking for some literature about follow focus use.

I have once participated during feature film production and remember camera assistant always measured a distance from camera to the object and adjusted follow focus. What this measuring is all about?
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The lenses have distance markers on them, if you're pulling focus you need to know the different distances focus has to be pulled to. With film, you can't just delete and go back, once it's exposed it can't be reused so with film being much more costly to buy, process, etc.. focus pullers need to get it right every time.

The tape measure is how they do it. (and probably a grease pen or two to mark up the lens ring and/or guide on the follow focus wheel)
 
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Will Vincent said:
The lenses have distance markers on them, if you're pulling focus you need to know the different distances focus has to be pulled to. With film, you can't just delete and go back, once it's exposed it can't be reused so with film being much more costly to buy, process, etc.. focus pullers need to get it right every time.

The tape measure is how they do it. (and probably a grease pen or two to mark up the lens ring and/or guide on the follow focus wheel)
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What about Canon EF-S Lens? Do the lenses have such markers on them? Follow focus wheel is where the camera assistant DID put some marks. I wonder how INITIALLY the distance/focus ratio was found? Is it pure math or some visionary there as well?
 
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Re-Maker said:
I will eventually (as I collect some money) equip my T2i with the subjected gear.

I really like those from micro, namely:
microSupport system for microMatteBox
microMatteBox Standard Bundle
microFollowFocus v2

some confusing things there that I still need to clarify weather not here, but with micro. However, I would like to know if there are other brands you can suggest that have a better quality to price ratio.

BTW, does follow focus require power to operate?
Click to expand...

I think Redrock has the best shoulder mount, matte box, and follow focus rig...but it's expensive.

You don't need power to follow focus...that will be done manually (wheel and gears).

You can get some pretty nice rigs for cheap internationally.

Also, in some cities, there are metal workshops where artists come together and work in a free-to-use space with equipment, to piece together their own rigs. The guy I know who pieced together his rig put his together in one of these shops.
 
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Since I decided to buy the T2i, which I probably order in the next few weeks, I also keep an eye on the gear, which is allegedly necessary.
But I am wondering, why I suddenly need a matte box, which costs as much as the T2i does.
Hitherto I filmed with the Canon XHA1 and never used a matte box. I understand the nd-filter problem, but aren´t there solutions, like the Genus fader filter? I still don´t know the convincing argument for a matte box (except for the professional look ;) ).
 
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Alexxx11 said:
Since I decided to buy the T2i, which I probably order in the next few weeks, I also keep an eye on the gear, which is allegedly necessary.
But I am wondering, why I suddenly need a matte box, which costs as much as the T2i does.
Hitherto I filmed with the Canon XHA1 and never used a matte box. I understand the nd-filter problem, but aren´t there solutions, like the Genus fader filter? I still don´t know the convincing argument for a matte box (except for the professional look ;) ).
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You don't need a matte box for the lens...sometimes people (including myself) get 'matte box' confused. See, I also consider a matte box to be the extension off the monitor which creates darkness for you to put your face in and look into...this is what my friend had. He had a small monitor on his shoulder rig, which sat in front of his face and there was a matte box extension from the monitor right to his face. It was awesome. Is that necessary...again, no, but very nice.

A matte box off the lens (if this is what you meant) is not necessary either...it helps though.

Also, you can either make your own jerryrigged, or purchase cheap online.
 
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My impression is that a matte box is a necessary tool for a serious cinematographer. A true cinematographer, who really knows what they're doing.

Schmucks like myself, who follow point-and-shoot "cinematography" -- a matte box is frivolous pointless spending. You got issues with lens flare? Stand in the shade (or have someone hold a card above the camera, to put it in the shade). You want a filter? Screw one on.
 
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Re-Maker said:
With Matte Box - I am after a professional look
With Follow Focus - a better ergonomics and accurate focusing
With External monitor - just a bigger picture
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You can get a professional look without the matte box. That's not what makes your image look good. It just stops flares and such...which you can do with flags if need be.

Follow focus is pretty necessary...not for a lot of shots...but there will be many times it will be needed.

External monitor will help you with focus, with detail, and with color (if it's a calibrated monitor). Some monitors will be darker or lighter...which is annoying...so you may need to tweak or shop around for a close to capture monitor image.
 
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M1chae1 said:
You can get a professional look without the matte box. That's not what makes your image look good. It just stops flares and such...which you can do with flags if need be.

Follow focus is pretty necessary...not for a lot of shots...but there will be many times it will be needed.

External monitor will help you with focus, with detail, and with color (if it's a calibrated monitor). Some monitors will be darker or lighter...which is annoying...so you may need to tweak or shop around for a close to capture monitor image.
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I know there are always cheap solutions out there that really work. I am simply in a position right now to get as much as I can to really shoot without DIY staff and look like a real cinematographer. I'll be honest, there is a PR move there as well.

Calibrated monitor will probably cost thousands. Is it possible to CALIBRATE the monitor using its user-settable adjustments. There might be some user presets - one for INDOOR, another for OUTDOOR...

I visited a store this afternoon and looked at one of the portable DVD-Players on sale. Those that have a screen and folds like a laptop. The screen size was 7' wide. Honestly, I didn't find it big enough. 10' is ideal - neither too big to loose portability, nor too small to loose frame vision.

My apologies to Moderators. I am mixing discussion in my two topics together...
 
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I would rather shoot like a cinematographer than look like one ;) .
That means, to my mind, to have first of all good lenses/primes, a good tripod and so on. But maybe you already own those things..

I´ve heard, that the "ikan" monitors are good. I own a portable DVD-player, but I will replace it as soon as I can. It is heavy and big, but the quality is okay. I haven´t tested it with a DSLR, just with my old DIY 35mm adapter, but with its 7" it was big enough to pull the focus.
 
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Ah, so you want your rig to look as legit as possible so you can impress the higher-ups? :) Well, not sure what to tell ya--find the cheapest parts overseas. There are some great deals from India and such...

10" monitor is great, especially for a camera mounted option. But 7" will do its job also...anything bigger than the small LCD screen on the camera.

As far as color and brightness, yes you can tweak the settings also I assume...just try and get a monitor that is as close as possible to final image capture.
 
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Re-Maker said:
I am looking for some literature about follow focus use.

I have once participated during feature film production and remember camera assistant always measured a distance from camera to the object and adjusted follow focus. What this measuring is all about?
Click to expand...

Focus pulling is a very large topic and could encompass a thread unto itself. Knowing distance from image plane to subject is only the very beginning of the equation. Measuring for marks is not always an option, and because EF and EF-S lenses will mechanically spin past critical/infinity (ring without hard stops, doesn't change focus past these points) marks might suddenly be off if you are not careful.

Also, if you are operating and pulling, marks will be useless as you won't be able to see where they are on the ff wheel.

Other stuff:

When a shade is mounted to the camera, it is called a "matte box." When a similar shaped shade is on a monitor, it is called a "hood." When a grip or a pa holds a flag behind your head so you can see monitor it is called a "courtesy." Also, a small flag mounted on a flexible arm mounted on the camera is called a "French Flag," and is another good way to reduce flare.

As far as why use a matte box? Well, often it skipped. First reason is that a matte box tends to be the fastest way to kill flare. Faster to reach over and dip the eyebrow than it is to find a grip, have them get a flag and hollywood it in the right spot. Also, there are plenty of situations that call for stacking filters. Easier to do with a box than with ring filters. Filter changes also faster with the box than with the screw-on types. At least if you are used to using them.

"Clip-on" 2 stage matte boxes are my favorite, small, lightweight, 2 filter stages for 4x4 filters and plenty of brow/side flag for most flare situations. Easier to manage during a lens change than some full size matte boxes.

The only thing you really need is a good follow focus and a way to mount it. Everything else is a true accessory, and can be rigged in a pinch if you don't have it.
 
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I have something like this..
http://vimeo.com/4270555

I do it a bit different, but close enough for rock and roll.

The DP on my 48 Hour Project was blown away by how well and simple it works..
With good marks, and a assistant DP, racks will work and be on focus.

(oh, fyi, this is for my manual canon FD lenses I use with my letus. Suitability for T2i lenses.. unknown.)
 
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I didn't read all the posts so I might be re-saying what others have.

I am an assistant camera so I hope I can help with some things.

Letus and Redrock both make mini adapters.

A matte box is used for holding filters in front of the lens (poloraizer, NDs, etc), as well as reducing flares.

A follow focus works like this:
-attach appropriate ring to the lens
-attach wheel to the rails and tighten so the lens gear and wheel gear rings connect.
-focus is marked on the wheel for easy pulling.

Good ACs can pull with just their eyes, but monitors help with framing/camera distance.

You get focus marks by measuring from the gate of the camera to the subject, which will be the exact point of focus.
 
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