Cinematic Shutter Speed!!

Ok, so they just told me that the best way to get a cinematic shutter speed look, is to multiply by 2 the frame rate in which we are filming. example(24p - 48Shutter Speed), But everytime I see my footage tests, i keep thinking that i need a shutter speed around 500, or something, i know that it depends on every person, what they want etc. But i would like to know, what you guys think, or what are the shutter speeds you use?
 
You can actually make a "poor man's" variable ND filter by using a rotating polarizer, and a cheap polarizer that does't rotate. Put them both on, and when they're perpendicular it basically blacks out the entire image, then you rotate the one filter and it let;s more and more light in until it's parallel.
 
One of the things I like on having excellent shutter speed camera is that it allows you to capture good moments. That would definitely provides you with excellent picture and capture.

Um, I do not understand what you mean by "having excellent shutter speed camera." :huh:

btw, Anybody who can recommend me a good but cheap ND filter for the 50mm 1.8 Canon EF?... i don't wanna lose any quality..

Well, I haven't really done much direct comparison. Hoya, Tiffen, Wratten, probably all in approximately the same price range.

Honestly, what do you consider a cheap filter? I picked up a B+W red/orange 4x for stills for about $60 with tax in a 52mm ring size. That's not really cheap, but OTOH considering the quality of the filter a really good price. I would just look around for one in your price range. If you have to go REALLY cheap with it, find some ND lighting gel and make something you can shoot through. Not the best solution optically, but probably cheaper than getting a good set of ND filters.

You can actually make a "poor man's" variable ND filter by using a rotating polarizer, and a cheap polarizer that does't rotate. Put them both on, and when they're perpendicular it basically blacks out the entire image, then you rotate the one filter and it let;s more and more light in until it's parallel.

That is an excellent idea!
 
Last edited:
oh...i sent it without quote.. sorry.... here it is (((((( You can actually make a "poor man's" variable ND filter by using a rotating polarizer, and a cheap polarizer that does't rotate. Put them both on, and when they're perpendicular it basically blacks out the entire image, then you rotate the one filter and it let;s more and more light in until it's parallel. )))))))


I kind of understand your idea, at least the purpose, so, if I want to make that cheap variable filter, which filters would your recommend me?, I'm looking for something that can keep the best image quality but kind of cheap, like the Hoya filters that escher told me about, so what would be a good rotating filter?, or which filters could i use to make this?... thanks...
 
Last edited:
I kind of understand your idea, at least the purpose, so, if I want to make that cheap variable filter, which filters would your recommend me?, I'm looking for something that can keep the best image quality but kind of cheap, like the Hoya filters that escher told me about, so what would be a good rotating filter?, or which filters could i use to make this?... thanks...

What lens are you using?

Basically, if you want cheap cheap, search "58 mm (circular polarize filter" on ebay, then do the same for just "polarize filter" and find one that doesn't rotate. Obviously, don't just do 58mm, buy what your lens takes or buy bigger with a step up ring (see below).

Things to keep in mind when purchasing filters:
1. A cheap filter ruins a nice lens. I was reading an article just yesterday comparing Zeiss and Canon lenses. The L Series canon lenses only allow 18mp of data through. Even on a higher res chip like the 5D has, the flagship canon lenses blur everything past 18mp.

If that's what the nicest lens they offer does, lenses that range from $1400-4000, what is a cheap piece of glass from Hong Kong going to do with your image? Everybody wants cheap (me included), but you get what you pay for. When it comes to an investment like a filter that you can use the rest of your life, regardless the camera or lens, it's worth waiting a week or four and putting in some extra hours at work to pay for it. It's actually more expensive to buy the cheap thing, then try to fix it in post spending hours and hours to no avail, then having to buy the real deal for the next project anyway.

2. Also, what I like to do with filters is buy a 77mm. They cost more than a 58 or 67 or whatever, and I actually don't own 77mm glass but with a $2 step up ring on ebay they work with a smaller lens. You can't really put a 58mm filter on a 77mm lens because it will vignette, so by sticking to 77 I ensure that filters I buy will be able to be used on any lens I own or rent int the future, with a max $2-10 step up ring to fit the new lens. Of course, extreme telephoto lenses and matteboxes won't accept the 77, but MOST lenses I will probably use MOST of the time on my 7D will :)
 
2. Also, what I like to do with filters is buy a 77mm. They cost more than a 58 or 67 or whatever, and I actually don't own 77mm glass but with a $2 step up ring on ebay they work with a smaller lens. You can't really put a 58mm filter on a 77mm lens because it will vignette, so by sticking to 77 I ensure that filters I buy will be able to be used on any lens I own or rent int the future, with a max $2-10 step up ring to fit the new lens. Of course, extreme telephoto lenses and matteboxes won't accept the 77, but MOST lenses I will probably use MOST of the time on my 7D will :)

I've been meaning to take an approach like this. Fortunately I haven't invested in too many filters yet, the few I do have are 52mm for my stills camera. Is 77 a good size estimate to get the best balance of most use and least PIA/cost? At what ring size would you consider going with a 3x3 or larger in a matte box?
 
I go with 77's because over the next few years I plan to buy a 24, 50, 85 and something over 100ish Canon L series primes, all of which use 77. I rent some of them for shoots in the mean time. They all use 77.

I don't have a matte box yet, and even when I do and have to buy filters for it, I'll still use my 77's on most handled type stuff when not using the mattebox. You can still use them with the mattebox, just harderto swap out.

You actually can't use a mattebox with a variable ND very well anyway because you have to have access to the end of the filter to spin it.
 
With you on those last bits, was just wondering what ring sizes were common these days. I think the real answer is following your lead and making a more solid wish list of lenses, then basing the choices on that.

Yeah, pola's in a matte box are a bit annoying, even the ones with the ring holder and rotating bits. For some reason the rentals I've used on jobs never quite seem to work right. Probably from abuse. I've been ACing for a guy that uses a clip-on matte box with 4x4 filters on his hdx-900, works reallly well. I'd like to mimic that setup for versatility, but the 4x4's are sooooo expensive. :)
 
What lens are you using?

Basically, if you want cheap cheap, search "58 mm (circular polarize filter" on ebay, then do the same for just "polarize filter" and find one that doesn't rotate. Obviously, don't just do 58mm, buy what your lens takes or buy bigger with a step up ring (see below).
2. Also, what I like to do with filters is buy a 77mm. They cost more than a 58 or 67 or whatever, and I actually don't own 77mm glass but with a $2 step up ring on ebay they work with a smaller lens. You can't really put a 58mm filter on a 77mm lens because it will vignette, so by sticking to 77 I ensure that filters I buy will be able to be used on any lens I own or rent int the future, with a max $2-10 step up ring to fit the new lens. Of course, extreme telephoto lenses and matteboxes won't accept the 77, but MOST lenses I will probably use MOST of the time on my 7D will :)

You changed my mind, I was going to buy something cheap cheap, but I'll better buy a 62mm or 77mm filter and adapted as you said, thanks for the advice, btw, if I do the "cheap variable ND filter" with a couple of 77mm filters for example, what's the f-Stop range I can get?
 
I'm not sure what you could "rate" it at on the light side, but it should black out the image on the darker end.

One more question about the 'Cheap ND variable filter' just to make sure, haha, If I buy cheap Polarize Filters will I lose any quality?, 'cause I'm reading in a tutorial that there is no point on buying expensive filters.. why?... sorry but I've never used filters, actually I'm new to DSLR's... thanks
 
Last edited:
One more question about the 'Cheap ND variable filter' just to make sure, haha, If I buy cheap Polarize Filters will I lose any quality?, 'cause I'm reading in a tutorial that there is no point on buying expensive filters.. why?... sorry but I've never used filters, actually I'm new to DSLR's... thanks

Whoever said there's no point in buying expensive filters is talking bollocks, frankly. While there won't be huge differences between the really high-end ones and the not so high-end ones, it's not something I'd cheap out on, and to a certain extent you do get what you pay for. Everything the camera sees is going through that filter and in my mind it's just daft to spoil hundreds of pounds worth of lens optics with a £5 filter.

Have a look round the net for filter reviews - I saw one a while ago with ND filters, and the cheapest versions had a green colour cast, which is definitely not something I'd want to do to my footage. Don't break the bank and don't worry if you can't afford it, but filters (like lenses) should last for a very long time when taken care of, and if you buy right you'll only have to buy them once.
 
Back
Top