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- Thread starter Wilbs23
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Cheap lenses and it's attached to the lens, not the 60D. As stated, google will give you more information. Happy hunting!
specifically that's the D-focus from Jag35.com on a 50mm f1.4 (not the cheap 1.8)
They are VERY expensive (follow focus).
I am trying to decide right now whether I can "get by" with a $600 one (the new one about to be released by Letus) or if I have to bite the bullet and spend $1000 plus on one.
The ones that cost $200 or $300 are by all accounts junk that you'll just have to replace anyway.
I am trying to decide right now whether I can "get by" with a $600 one (the new one about to be released by Letus) or if I have to bite the bullet and spend $1000 plus on one.
The ones that cost $200 or $300 are by all accounts junk that you'll just have to replace anyway.
having never used a high end follow focus, I can tell you the week part of my system right now is not the indiSystems Follow Focus (sub $200), rather its the low end EOS lenses, They are sloppy in manual focus, for example, the kit 18-55 lens CAN focus past infinity, and when you get to the end has this little BUMP! The other lenses have such short focus throw that racking focus can be such a SMALL movement that its very tricky.
I will say when I was using the Canon FD glass on my Letus, the lash in the follow focus WAS a problem.
I will say when I was using the Canon FD glass on my Letus, the lash in the follow focus WAS a problem.
I'll be interested to see how one works on my old Yashica and Super Takumar glass. From close to infinity is a full rotation on most of those lenses. They are also very firm feeling, especially the old yashicas. Some of that may be old dried out grease though. I just don't want to have to buy twice, spend $300 on a follow focus just to hate it and wind up buying a more expensive one in the end. Trying to follow that advice on all my gear. I have about $2000 to spend on extras. Already $275 in on a Z Finder, and $500 in on a Manfrotto 503HDV tripod head with the 055xprob legs. That doesn't leve much for rails and a follow focus. I will likely have to take the cheapie route on a Matte Box for sure.
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Sure, I get you on that gonzo.
In seeming contradiction, I did buy a CHEAP LCDVF knock off, mostly because I want to SEE, conceptually, how this works for me. If I like it, I will drop the $500 on a Letus Hawk. To me spending $560 on something I KNOW I can use is better then spending $500 on something I MIGHT be able to use.
(You might want to check out the letus Hawk if your looking at zfinder... ) Letus has great optics in all they make.
In seeming contradiction, I did buy a CHEAP LCDVF knock off, mostly because I want to SEE, conceptually, how this works for me. If I like it, I will drop the $500 on a Letus Hawk. To me spending $560 on something I KNOW I can use is better then spending $500 on something I MIGHT be able to use.
(You might want to check out the letus Hawk if your looking at zfinder... ) Letus has great optics in all they make.
IMHO as someone who's done a fair amount of 1st AC work with follow focus rigs ranging from the jag35 one pictured (and similar super-cheap ones) up to very very expensive Preston remote rigs:
If you are looking at just about anything at the Red Rock Micro price range or below, you might as well just get the Jag and save your money for a nicer Chroziel down the road should you continue to do your own shooting and end up with a rent-able package.
I hate the cheap ones, on any lens (caveat below) The Jag unit has the same internal parts as the version 1 Red Rock Micro. They both have the same level of stiffness and slop in the gearing. The version 2 of RRM's is better, but not by enough that it warrants the price difference, with an asterisk.
Caveat: I don't feel enough a measurable difference in follow focus performance until the prices are high enough that it doesn't make sense for the indie filmmaker. Below a grand, there all pretty much the same from what I've experienced.
Asterisk: EF lenses and their stupid stupid stupid focus rings that have zero friction and no hard stops at close or infinity focus are so worthless for focus pulling and measuring marks anyway that you might as well get a decently made budget FF unit and wing it as best you can.
For example, in order to spin a 35mm L series canon prime from close to inf you usually have to exceed a 360 degree turn on the FF wheel. Infuriating. I'm sure if I had the time to sit down and make changes to gear pitch and not have gear rings like the one pictured (which drastically increase the circumference of the lens, and therefore increase the degree of turn on the FF wheel) I might be able to get it under 360, but that never happens.
I think the nicer units are really only cost effective if you've got manual lenses with some feel to them and hard stops to work with. You know, ones that won't breathe when you pull. Or if you are a shooter, getting a day rate and a kit fee for all that expensive gear.
Crap, now I'm late. Fortunately, not critical.
HTH.
If you are looking at just about anything at the Red Rock Micro price range or below, you might as well just get the Jag and save your money for a nicer Chroziel down the road should you continue to do your own shooting and end up with a rent-able package.
I hate the cheap ones, on any lens (caveat below) The Jag unit has the same internal parts as the version 1 Red Rock Micro. They both have the same level of stiffness and slop in the gearing. The version 2 of RRM's is better, but not by enough that it warrants the price difference, with an asterisk.
Caveat: I don't feel enough a measurable difference in follow focus performance until the prices are high enough that it doesn't make sense for the indie filmmaker. Below a grand, there all pretty much the same from what I've experienced.
Asterisk: EF lenses and their stupid stupid stupid focus rings that have zero friction and no hard stops at close or infinity focus are so worthless for focus pulling and measuring marks anyway that you might as well get a decently made budget FF unit and wing it as best you can.
For example, in order to spin a 35mm L series canon prime from close to inf you usually have to exceed a 360 degree turn on the FF wheel. Infuriating. I'm sure if I had the time to sit down and make changes to gear pitch and not have gear rings like the one pictured (which drastically increase the circumference of the lens, and therefore increase the degree of turn on the FF wheel) I might be able to get it under 360, but that never happens.
I think the nicer units are really only cost effective if you've got manual lenses with some feel to them and hard stops to work with. You know, ones that won't breathe when you pull. Or if you are a shooter, getting a day rate and a kit fee for all that expensive gear.
Crap, now I'm late. Fortunately, not critical.
HTH.
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Thanks, David. I have the Redrock V.2 and I'm not impressed at all. Having little choice at this point, I'll get used to it and be able to appreciate a Chroziel (way) down the road.
With all the advances in wireless FF's and range finders, who knows what will be available when I'm ready.
With all the advances in wireless FF's and range finders, who knows what will be available when I'm ready.
Im on the hunt for vintage glass so I can use FF with some degree of efficacy. (among other desirable traits)
I highly recommend M42 screw mount. Seem to have few issues with mirroe interference (a few do, most don't). I am fond of Pentax Super Takumar and Yashica DS glass. My Yashicas and Super Takumars are all firm and 270 to 360 degrees rotation from close to infinity.
Hey Gonzo, hit my local pawn shop today..
I picked up a couple of m42 screw mount lenses... tackumar 135mm f3.5 (sorta slow I know..)
and a chinon 55mm f1.4 that is beautiful s just to look at! Looks brand new. It came on a GAF L-14 35mm camera, they just tossed the camera in the bag too... I have no use for it either..
I picked up a couple of m42 screw mount lenses... tackumar 135mm f3.5 (sorta slow I know..)
and a chinon 55mm f1.4 that is beautiful s just to look at! Looks brand new. It came on a GAF L-14 35mm camera, they just tossed the camera in the bag too... I have no use for it either..
Yep, I'm acquiring quite a collection of Yashica Electro 35s and Pentax Spotmatic cameras that I got with lenses.
That 135mm 1:3.5 is a pretty classic lens. It has a nice look and it's pretty fast when you compare it a zoom. Those actually go cheap on the bay, in the $25 to $40 range. I've never used that Chinon, so don't know muchg about it. Keep your eye out for the Takumar 55mm 1:1.8, it's my absolute favorite lens. The gem that has almost been hunted to extinction is the Takumar 50mm 1:1.4, they go for $100 plus on ebay, so if you find one cheap snatch it up. I'm going to search a little while longer for one on the cheap, then go ahead and cough up the going rate for one.
fun stuff... Im trying to build up my primes to replace what Im giving up in the FD glass. The problem is wide and fast. Expensive any age, any format.