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Tilt Shift

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Danny23

Hey, im about to shoot a music video and im going to be doing it tilt shift style (not with a lens but in post)

Just wondering whihc option would be best to go with, i hopefully should have my hands on a 550d or 5d soon, so should i shoot it at 25fps and modify it to 4fps in post or shoot at 4fps?

It seems like you have more control with grading with stills, but does like very very time consuming.

Also any other tips before i head out?
 
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Tilt-shift lenses are able to rotate and move their position relative to the imaging sensor - I think what you're referring to here is the tilt part of that combined with selective focusing, which allows you to make normal scenes look like miniatures. Whether you shoot video at 25fps or stills at 4fps depends entirely on how you want the finished piece to look - shooting stills (particularly if you shoot RAW) will give you an enormous increase in the data you have to work with in post-production, but this is no use if you can't create the look you want with it. Could you describe what you're trying to do in a bit more detail or maybe post a video or two similar to what you're after?
 
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Cool stuff, I really liked those! If you're talking proper landscape rather than the cityscape type shots in The Sandpit, it might be a little harder to make it interesting - part of the reason those two films works so well is because there's so much going on.

You've probably read them already, but the interviews with Sam O'Hare linked from those videos are really useful; as he explains, shooting stills allows you to stabilise the shots without losing resolution (when the final thing is HD), and it will also allow you to crop and pan across the footage in post. It will be more time consuming than shooting video, but considering all the time you'll have to spend doing the miniature effect it won't make a massive difference, and it will allow you to create a much more polished final film.
 
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Yeah i read them, but i also read one from another director who shot the footage at a higher resolution was 2400x some thing (cant quite remember the number off the top of my head) so you have an overlap you can pan across.

And i will be doing cityscapes aswell as landscapes, sorry i didnt point that out.

This may sound funny but i may have to research into shooting stills at 4FPS, i have never done it before, am i going to need a massive memory card?

Am i reading it right but im not going to have to grade every single still right? would i combine them into clips then grade the clip as a whole?
 
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After effects can treat a series of stills like footage, so once you got the images, its no biggie.

Which I had never cared about till your post.. now I have a t2i too, so... maybe Ill do this some day..
 
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Danny23 said:
Yeah i read them, but i also read one from another director who shot the footage at a higher resolution was 2400x some thing (cant quite remember the number off the top of my head) so you have an overlap you can pan across.

And i will be doing cityscapes aswell as landscapes, sorry i didnt point that out.

This may sound funny but i may have to research into shooting stills at 4FPS, i have never done it before, am i going to need a massive memory card?

Am i reading it right but im not going to have to grade every single still right? would i combine them into clips then grade the clip as a whole?
Click to expand...

Yep, you'll want to shoot your stills at a higher resolution than HD so you can do the image stabilisation, cropping and panning that was mentioned before in post-production.

I don't know what camera you're shooting with or what resolution and file type your stills will be, but a massive memory card may help - you'll need at least a Class 6 (though a Class 10 would be much better) card to make the write speeds as fast as possible.

Correct, you'll grade them as you would a video. Your post-production workflow will roughly go something like this: take lots of photos; combine them into "image sequences" (sequential stills that can be played back as a video); apply image stabilisation, cropping and panning; send to your editing software and cut together; colour grade individual clips.
 
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chilipie said:
Yep, you'll want to shoot your stills at a higher resolution than HD so you can do the image stabilisation, cropping and panning that was mentioned before in post-production.

I don't know what camera you're shooting with or what resolution and file type your stills will be, but a massive memory card may help - you'll need at least a Class 6 (though a Class 10 would be much better) card to make the write speeds as fast as possible.

Correct, you'll grade them as you would a video. Your post-production workflow will roughly go something like this: take lots of photos; combine them into "image sequences" (sequential stills that can be played back as a video); apply image stabilisation, cropping and panning; send to your editing software and cut together; colour grade individual clips.
Click to expand...

So bring the 2000+pixel shots into a 1080p/4fps template in after effects? image stabalize, then crop and pan.

Then import the clips in editing suite (as an uncompressed mov/avi?)


Also if i decide to get the band to sing in time (as apposed to have it speeded up like the rest of the video) would i have to get them to sing it 625% slower? so the 4fps looks asif 25fps at 100%?
 
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Im still kind on confused how to get this look.

My uni is fulled booked out of 550d's for 3 weeks (past my deadline) so im stuck with using my panasonic fz38.

I have no control over how many stills it takes a second (it says approx 6, not sure if its getting anywhere near this) and its only limited to 3-mega pixels and lq jpeg now RAW :(

So would the best option be to use the hd video fuction (only 720p) and posterize or timewarp in after effects?

Ive tried a few different fps on different compositions and none of them seem to look right.

Doing it this way requires me to slightly enlarge the image to overlap slightly to do stabilization, but it looks like this is my only choice at the moment.
 
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sorry to flame this post but...

my fz38 just wasnt up to the job, so ive pleaded with my uncle to let him borrow me his nikon d7000, but as long as i dont use it for burst stills (he doesnt want to use up 30,000 of his garenteed 150,000 shots!)

so im going to be using the video in the camera. to get the desired look (the two videos above) am i going to - shoot in 25fps - posterize to Xfps - then timewarp faster?

thanks for any help, this project is quickly going from enjoyable to stressful!
 
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