Shooting with the Canon T3i

Hey everyone.

I'm considering this camera as a stationary shooter - but what I can't easily find is whether the "stereo mic in" is actually line level or not - as in - can i hook up some of my mics/pres/compressors etc to an unbalanced out into this camera, or will the impedance be all wrong?

Does anyone here have experience with the audio input on this camera?

Cheers,
~Russell
 
Repeat after me...​


hypnosis.jpg


I will not use the audio on a DSLR camera...

I will not use the audio on a DSLR camera...

I will not use the audio on a DSLR camera...

I will not use the audio on a DSLR camera...

I will not use the audio on a DSLR camera...

I will not use the audio on a DSLR camera...

I will not use the audio on a DSLR camera...
 
do you guys just "eyeball" your good audio alongside whatever it captures? seems kind of unscientific.

i guess there's no way to sync the 48k audio on this device with anything else? are there any wordclock/spdif etc addons for these kind of consumer devices?
 
The audio implementation of DSLRs is quite substandard; after all, they are still cameras being co-opted into recording video. It is becoming standard practice to treat a DSLR camera as you would a film camera.

Sync is not a problem unless the take substantially exceeds ten (10) minutes, and even then the drift is minimal. Keep in mind that there is no "hard" sync when using film, and sync was done exclusively with slates/clapboard and verbal announcements from the late '20's and continues to this day.

By visually and verbally slating each take and keeping meticulous audio and video logs syncing is not a big problem, and is very, very easy when you have the camera audio as a guide track. Softwares like PluralEyes partially automate the process.

As an audio guy I have my prejudices as far as equipment goes, but it is possible to capture very solid production sound on a minimal budget. Step one is making an unshakeable commitment to capturing good sound. Step two is learning, applying and adhering to established protocols and techniques. As I was taught by my "geek" when learning computers in the early 80's, "It's really very simple; but there's one hell of a lot of simple!!!"
 
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Repeat after me...​


hypnosis.jpg


I will not use the audio on a DSLR camera...

I will not use the audio on a DSLR camera...

I will not use the audio on a DSLR camera...

I will not use the audio on a DSLR camera...

I will not use the audio on a DSLR camera...

I will not use the audio on a DSLR camera...

I will not use the audio on a DSLR camera...

But....but...I have a Rode Videomic PRO AND Magic Lantern
 
Excellent information - thank you. I had no idea that the drift would be that minimal; I too come from an audio background and actively taking picture is new to me. Clapper and notes it is.

For the budget - is the T3i a good choice?

Thanks for the comments - its helping a bunch.
 
Synch/drift would not be an issue as Alcove is stating unless you get to a long take of 10 minutes. You actually WANT to record at 96khz and then convert to 48khz in post. The T3i is considered an excellent beginner / intermediate cam by most. You would need additional lenses. MOST important is mastering the skills. A good camcorder and a decent audio recorder setup w/ proper mics will work wonders too IMO








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That Marantz recorder is top notch for most of us lowballers here. It is well regarded. You are about the first I've heard to even think of spending as much on audio as one would on an entry level cam.

The Tascam DR-100 MKII ( $300 ) or even the Tascam DR-40 ( $150 ) and some good mics and you will have decent entry level tools IMO
 
I too come from an audio background and actively taking picture is new to me.

The basics of sound - types of mics, gain-staging, signal flow and the like - stay the same and will be an asset to you. However, you will have to discard a large percentage of your music recording and live sound knowledge; sound-for-picture is a very different mentality. I know, I was a live performer and studio droid for 25+ years and spent another six as a music recording engineer before migrating to audio post a little over ten years ago.
 
So I picked up the T3i last night - what a smokin' deal.. i paid more for my s40 back in the day.

Any tips on lenses, filters? since I'll be using a tripod for most shots, I assume used non-IS lenses are a good way to go?
 
IS is nice on longer lenses.

Best bang for your buck is Rokinon/Samyang/Bower. They're the same lenses branded differently. Stellar quality (Like L Glass quality) but no auto controls. Everything is manual, which is great for video. And, very, very competitive pricing. Their 85mm 1.4 is only $279 brand new.
 
So I picked up the T3i last night - what a smokin' deal.. i paid more for my s40 back in the day.

Any tips on lenses, filters? since I'll be using a tripod for most shots, I assume used non-IS lenses are a good way to go?

I've got a t3i as well, great starting out camera.

IMO, for lenses, it all depends on what you want to do.... there is no one lens or lenses that are correct, the camera and the lens are creative tools and in creativity there is no right and wrong. Just to illustrate, I've read that Martin Scorssese hates long lenses while Akria Kurosawa sometimes used only long lenses for entire films.

Sorry, just realised do didn't ask specifically what focal length you should go with, just general advice - chances are you already know A LOT more than me!! (wouldn't be hard!)

Anyway, Depends if you want them for: Just video? Just for stills? Or Both (like me)? And then it depends on what your level of skill taking stills is, EG: I want my lenses to use my lenses for both Still and Video at the moment, and as my skill level is still quite low I want to stay away from Manual only lenses because I love/need the auto focus for stills (and video for composing before recording), plus I'm on a budget (Uni student).


I have a photographer friend who only uses older manual and he does fine, but I couldn't fathom doing that!

You really should go out and get yourself a Canon EF 50mm f1.8 II aka the "Nifty Fifty" - cheap and absolutely amazing for the price... Highly regarded and recommended lens. IMO it's a bit awkard on a crop sensor like our t3i (basically making it like a 85mm, great for portraits etc), I hardly use it anymore to be honest since I got my Tamron 17 - 50mm non VC (Non IS)

The wide end of the scale I've heard great things about the Tokina 11-16mm.

You could have a decent zoom range covered with something like:

Tokina 11 - 16mm
Tamron 17 - 50mm
*something for the 50mm - 150mm range*

Or you could get a handful of primes instead (or as well), like a 20mm equiv, 40 or 50mm equiv and an 85 or 100mm equiv.

But you can't go wrong with a 50mm equivalent as a general starting out "all rounder" type of lens, on our crop sensor this would roughly be a 30mm lens which equates to 48mm. In my research the Sigma 30mm f1.4 is the best bang for buck in this range (Remember I need auto focus), this will probably be my next lens although I do find the 40mm focal lenght to be somewhat more pleasing to me (this would be a 25mm lens on the t3i) so I'm tossing up something around 24mm instead.

That said, if you don't mind manual focus, what PaulGrifith said about the Samyangs etc, you really can't go wrong there, heard GREAT things about their lenses, they don't make a crap load of them but what they do make I've heard is amazing:

* Samyang 8mm f/3.5 Fisheye (for APS-C / DX sensors)
* Samyang 14mm f/2.8 IF ED UMC Aspherical
* Samyang AE 14mm f/2.8 IF ED AS UMC Aspherical
* 24mm f/1.4 ED AS UMC (Announced in August 2011 for release in late 2011 or early 2012)[2]
* Samyang 35mm f/1.4 AS UMC
* Samyang 85mm f/1.4 IF Aspherical
* Samyang AE 85mm f/1.4 IF Aspherical

I don't believe the 24mm 1.4 is out yet but I expect it to be amazing when it does land and maybe by then my skill will have improved!

Or you can get old Nikon/Nikkor manual lenses and get adapter rings to fit them onto your t3i, they can be had really quite cheap and have great optics (assuming they're in good nick still), I've got a great video about that somewhere, if you're interested I can post it up for you.
 
Oops, forgot to post something that I thought was pretty cool, at the beginning of the Audio commentary from Danny Boyle on the Sunshine Blu-ray (might be DVD too) he goes further than Lucas who said that audio is 50% of the experience and says that Audio is 70% of the experience.

IMO I would go even further and say audio is more important than both of them said. All my opinion of course but I would much rather watch a movie shot on a crappy DV cam or iphone and have great audio than something shot on a Red one or 35mm film and not be able to hear anything.

The bad thing is I don't know SHIT about sound yet...
 
Gibbo - thanks so much! Great info.

I'm picking up a 28-135mm USM IS this week, for both shooting stills and having a bit of zoom. It's not a fast lens by any stretch but it does open up some options.
 
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