Ripping VHS to digital issues

Hi all, first post here. Seems like an incredible place.

So I'm trying to rip these old VHS tapes with Uleadvideostudio. I bought this adaptor that comes with the software and has the standard 3 connectors (white,red,yellow) and it goes to USB at the other end.

I started the caption and pressed play on my VHS player. It rendered a complete (and enormous) AVI file, but the playback is erratic. I get a few images, but they are very far apart of each other and in between there are just frames of complete black. The colors seem messed up at times too.

Now, I'm guessing that I got some setting wrong when rendering my file, but I'm not too sure of what it could be? I come from an audio background and I know next to nothing about video.

Thanks!
 
Hi all, first post here. Seems like an incredible place.

So I'm trying to rip these old VHS tapes with Uleadvideostudio. I bought this adaptor that comes with the software and has the standard 3 connectors (white,red,yellow) and it goes to USB at the other end.

I started the caption and pressed play on my VHS player. It rendered a complete (and enormous) AVI file, but the playback is erratic. I get a few images, but they are very far apart of each other and in between there are just frames of complete black. The colors seem messed up at times too.

Now, I'm guessing that I got some setting wrong when rendering my file, but I'm not too sure of what it could be? I come from an audio background and I know next to nothing about video.

Thanks!

Could I ask, first off, how old the version of Ulead Video Studio you're using is, and how old the capture device is?

Because I used to use that exact combination for grabbing footage from VHS and 8mm VHS for projects back in the day. But that was nearly 6-8 years ago.

AVI files are large and cumbersome. They're still used quite regularly, and are still included in every major software I believe. But I quit using them quite a while back due to how large they are, and how erratic or unpredictable they can be if you're using a very old version of the codec.

Also, I'm assuming due to their size and composition in said codec, that when you are streaming an input source to a capture program that records to AVI, you're computer system has to be rather fast in order for the stream to be captured perfectly at any given moment. Because if the recording is ever interrupted due to an overload of physical memory, then it will likely cut out: leaving you with missing frames or missing chunks, as I believe you described.

I've had a pretty difficult time finding modern capture devices that use A/V cables or Composite Cables. And finding any modern video software that has a capture function is equally as hard, because the software not only has to be able to capture video from a source, but it has to recognize the video source you are actually using. And often my computers don't recognize even the web-cams I've plugged in.

My recent solution to this (I have yet to try it, however) is to make use of modern capture devices intended for Video Game reviews on Youtube. These are specific devices that support most modern game consoles, and allow all footage to be captured in crisp 1080p quality onto a thumb or flash-drive. The video format I believe is the much more versatile h.264 Mpeg format, which is very small in file size as well.

In theory, I should be able to hook up one of these capture devices to my HDCable adapter for Composite cables, which are plugged into my VCR, record the footage onto the flash drive. And then take that flash drive to my computer and copy over the files. These files would likely be much more clean, unbroken, easy to read and playback on any player, and would be editable by any software.

I have plenty of old tapes I'd like to convert to digital, so this would likely be the way I would do it, because anything else has neither proven easy, reliable, or even doable unless you have the right combination of equipment and software. And frankly, using a dedicated device that stands outside of the computer I feel is more reliable than hooking a bunch of cables into the computer and capturing it that way. Because my computer and the software I use is not a well-oiled machine: it would be closer to a Gerry-rigged system made from multiple different parts that work in tandem, and only if you get the right combination of parts does it even work the way you want. Whereas a single specified device intended for capturing live streaming footage would be designed from the get-go to do it's job, and hopefully do it well.
 
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Welcome to IT!

My first questions are:
- what is the duration of the videofile?
- what is the file size of the file?
- what settings do you use for the AVI files?
AVI can be incredibily large: in that case it is often Uncompressed.
However, AVI was also THE capture codec for windows computers in the standard definition era.
SD (Standard Definition) was captured as DVPAL/DV NTSC AVI at 25Mb/s.
Which is about 12,5GB per hour, which should be doable.
Just make sure you have more than enough space on a (defragmented) disc.

In case the AVI is set to Uncompressed: you need a terrible fast computer with loads of diskspace for that. Better avoid this, unless you need the files to be uncompressed.
 
Welcome to IT!

My first questions are:
- what is the duration of the videofile?
- what is the file size of the file?
- what settings do you use for the AVI files?
AVI can be incredibily large: in that case it is often Uncompressed.
However, AVI was also THE capture codec for windows computers in the standard definition era.
SD (Standard Definition) was captured as DVPAL/DV NTSC AVI at 25Mb/s.
Which is about 12,5GB per hour, which should be doable.
Just make sure you have more than enough space on a (defragmented) disc.

In case the AVI is set to Uncompressed: you need a terrible fast computer with loads of diskspace for that. Better avoid this, unless you need the files to be uncompressed.

My thoughts exactly. AVI's were far smaller in the SD era when I used them extensively. But between 2005 and 2010, they grew significantly in bit size versus duration or frame-per-second. So I eventually quit using them because not only were they taking up too much space, but they just didn't feel as reliable as they used to be.

I think quicktimes are pretty comparable, though, in both quality and file size, if not a bit less.
 
That's because both AVI and MOV are just containers, like XMF.
The AVI's didn't get bigger suddenly, there was/is just no efficient codec for HD you can wrap in an AVI.
I guess microsoft didn't care, since it has wmv (whick looks terrible) and both camera manufacturers and NLEs went for other, better solutions.
Back then you could also use uncompressed AVI, but it was very impractical, so it was often only used to safe a high quality master.
A Quicktime MOV can harbour .mov, mp4, h.264, uncompressed video (called animation) and much more.
 
Hi, Thanks a lot for your replies

FilmmakerJ :

The version of UVS is quite old! It's version 10 from 2006, so probably similar to what you were using. Don't know about the device, but they were sold together in a bundle on ebay, so I guess from they're from the same year. Didn't realize how old it was when I ordered it.

Walter B : Not sure how long that video really is (it belongs to someone else). I let my comp proccess it and when I came back at the 2 hours mark it was over so I stopped the capture. But it's a wedding and there is a lot of stuff so I guess around 1h-1h30. The file was
190 gb large (!) and it was rendered uncompressed. Almost ran out of space.


Sounds from what you guys say that its worth a try to render to a less heavy format. My comp isn't exactly the fastest one and definitely isn't made for doing huge processing like that. Hope I can get something workable anyways...


In hindsight, I definitely should have read a bit more before delving into this. Seems like its way more work than it looked at first.

I just started a rendering in MPEG. I'll update y'all tomorrow.
 
After doing a bunch of test runs with different codecs it seems to me like the problem isn't lying there.

All files were suffering from the same choppyness, distortions, lack of sound etc.. even when rendering to wmv.

Not sure what to try at this point? Any other ideas are welcome.
 
Time to check the 'chain'.

- Can you watch the VHS on a TV?
- Can you watch the VHS on a TV using the same output (white, red, yellow) as when you try to capture it?

If both anwsers are yes, the VHS player is not the problem.

- On what harddrive are you trying to save the file? (The same as the OS? Or a physically seperate one (in or external?)
- Is the drive you try to save the file on heavily fragmented?

If you use your 'system disk' it will be slower. If a disk is heavily fragmented it will be slower.
Remember: the disk has to keep up with the input.

- What are your computer's specs? Operating system? CPU? GPU?
If your computer is as old as the software it might just not be up to the task.

The one thing you can't test properly is whether the device is broken or not.
While I must admit that might be the most logical cause, I put it last, so you can check all the other stuff :P
 
After some more infernal troubleshooting, here are the results:

Yes I can watch the VHS on the tv with the composite output. Btw, I noticed that some of the image distortion, which I thought was induced by the faulty rendering, was present in the original tape. Don't want to be misleading here :P

Concerning my HD : It's internal and it's been a WHILE since I defragged it, probably more than a year.

My OS is windows 7 64 bit (on a dell latitude E5420 with 8GB RAM). Thought it might be too modern for that old software, but I just tried it with my equally old win xp laptop (which is probably heavily fragmented too) with the same results. My GPU's on both computers are stock laptop GPU's, so probably horrible for what I'm intending to do.

Sure hope as hell that the device isn't broken. I already gave feedback to that ebay user (not too wise on my behalf eh) and I don't have time to get a replacement, since this video is meant to be given as a christmas gift and it has to be ready for the 24th.

I'll try to defrag my drive and also render to an external one to see if it changes anything.
 
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Bump.

I thought I might try to pass the video info through S-video instead(there's an additionnal S-video connector on my adaptor and I can chose S-video as input in UVS). I know it doesn't pass audio, but I think I have a workaround for that.

Now, I don't have a certified S-video cable, but I just found this 4-pin cable that's labelled "low voltage computer cable". The type of old cable which we used way back to plug keyboards into PC's haha.. it seems to fit perfectly with the s-video adaptor. Any chance that could work? I don't want to risk to break anything and I'm not sure they're compatible even if they fit well together.

Thanks,
 
Bump.

I thought I might try to pass the video info through S-video instead(there's an additionnal S-video connector on my adaptor and I can chose S-video as input in UVS). I know it doesn't pass audio, but I think I have a workaround for that.

Now, I don't have a certified S-video cable, but I just found this 4-pin cable that's labelled "low voltage computer cable". The type of old cable which we used way back to plug keyboards into PC's haha.. it seems to fit perfectly with the s-video adaptor. Any chance that could work? I don't want to risk to break anything and I'm not sure they're compatible even if they fit well together.

Thanks,

There are a few cables out there, for instance the Thunderbolt cable, which has come in two forms: early Thunderbolt cables were referred to as Display Port or MiniDisplay Port, cable connectors which only transferred visual data or images from your desktop or other device to a Display Port enabled monitor. However, Thunderbolt cables, while looking very similiar and working off the same connector design, are far more advanced, and can actually transfer data as well. In fact, Thunderbolt is the next step up from USB 3.0.

Thunderbolt cables are backwards compatible, but Display Port cables cannot be used in a Thunderbolt port.

What I mean by all of this is that there are sure to be other cables from the past that work on the same design and connector configuration, but you must be sure which "kind" of cable it actually is before you try to make use of it.

I also think one of the biggest instances where this kind of confusion can occur are between video transfer cables and power cables, a few of which are likely designed in a similar fashion.

Bottom line, do not do what you said you might do. You're probably not going to necessarily fry something (although you can never be too safe and sure), but you probably won't get any results or any video coming through if it really is the wrong kind of cable. Best to do your research and find the right cable if you still want to go with the capture device you're working with.
 
...........
You're probably not going to necessarily fry something (although you can never be too safe and sure), ........

LOL
Are you serious?
A power cable can only fry something if it has a power source.
Or if it is shortcircuiting one.

It probably just won't fit, but if it does fit perfectly, it will connect both devices. It will not add power to it.
S-video has 4 pins, right?
A, B, C, D. The A will connect to A, B to B, C to C, D to D.
There is a possibility it would work despite the connectors are the same: when the resistance in the cable is so high the signal gets lost in noise.

However: it is a safer bet to just order a new, good cable online.
This way you can eliminate the cable from the possible hurdles.
So I also recommend getting the right cable for it (but not because you will otherwise throw bolts of lightning through your house ;) )
 
LOL
Are you serious?

Yes I am.

If I'm wrong, though, then I'm wrong. I don't know everything about how electronics work, even when it comes to apparent basics like that. And yet, there are a lot of things I do know.

I mean, I would think something can go wrong if the cables being connected have their internal wires going to different pins on the other end. But like you said, A goes to A, B goes to be, C to C, and so on. So that should never end up an issue. Or perhaps if a cord looks the same but its pins on the inside are different enough in terms of spacing, then it could bend those pins out of alignment for when you have the right proper cable, and it just can't fit in correctly.

In either case, there are issues that could come up if you don't use the correct designated cable.
 
I found the best system for that was made by Adaptec. It was a PCI adapter card with the RCA red, white, and yellow connections to a VCR and imported the files as Mpeg2 files. VHS files won't be great quality to begin with. On a computer screen or HD TV they will appear grainy.

If you have a dual recorder, you can convert the VHS tapes to DVDs and import them on a computer with third party video file formatting software into something you video editing software can read.

avi or mov through a USB 1 connection or even USB 2 is going to end up with skips in the data transfer. I tried such a hookup with my old Imac DV. And, a similar hookup with a Windows 98 PC with similar results. It's a hardware problem. Software won't fix that. The data transfer is too slow for avi and mov.

A dual recorder transferring your vhs to DVD is most likely your best option.

Good luck.
 
Bump.

Got a free replacement usb-composite adapter. That didn't work either. I contacted the company support, they haven't answered yet.

I'll have to look into these dual recorders, they look quite handy! Thanks for the suggestion Modern Day Myth Prod!

I also thought about a DVD burner with composite input, I've seen some samsung ones go for ~40$ on ebay. Pretty sure that would work too?

Looks like this is finally leading somewhere hehe! Thanks to all, you guys are ace.
 
I don't know if anyone else addressed this - is it a copyright film on the VHS tape?

You could be experiencing the blackouts from what was called "MACROVISION" protection.
 
You are welcome, solarwills.

A dual recorder will not copy a VHS tape to DVD or DVD to VHS tape, if the material is copy protected. Since it's your own work, the transfer should work without a problem. Take the DVD you make with the recorder and put it into the DVD drive of your computer. There is third party software that can convert the DVD format into many formats, including Mpeg2, avi, mov, and mp4 file formats. Mpeg2 may be your best bet because DVDs use the Mpeg2 format. Any video editing software can import the files into your project.

Good luck.
 
You are welcome, solarwills.

A dual recorder will not copy a VHS tape to DVD or DVD to VHS tape, if the material is copy protected. Since it's your own work, the transfer should work without a problem. Take the DVD you make with the recorder and put it into the DVD drive of your computer. There is third party software that can convert the DVD format into many formats, including Mpeg2, avi, mov, and mp4 file formats. Mpeg2 may be your best bet because DVDs use the Mpeg2 format. Any video editing software can import the files into your project.

Good luck.
 
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