Hi, I recently bought a Steadicam (never had or used one before) but even after balancing it, it keeps spinning whenever I move. I bought it so when I shoot sports games for clients it would be less shaky but it won't balance with that lens (Canon 75-300m). If you could tell me how to balance a heavy lens like that, that would be great. But anyway, so I tried with a lighter lens (Canon 18-55mm) and even though it is kinda balanced, every time I move the steadicam spins around. The camera will just spin to look at me or to the left when I am only moving it forwards to backwards or left to right. How can I fix this? My stedicam is a Pro Gradienter S-40. It came with no instructions so I had to google it.
My New Steadicam Keeps Spinning
- Thread starter IndieMovieMaker
- Start date
As with all FlyCam type stabilizers, you have to hold the vertical rod to prevent it from spinning. Just use a light touch, finger and thumb, just above the bearing. That should sort you out.
But then how do I zoom, focus etc. when I am using my other hand to hold the stabilizer? Is that just how it is?
Both zooming and focusing are not the sort of thing I'd imagine ever wanting to do with a FlyCam mounted camera. To my mind, it's the sort of tool you'd want to use for narrative work, where you can pick your shots. You're not likely to want to zoom and if you feel like you're going to need to refocus, then you may want to change the shot or perhaps the FlyCam isn't the right tool for the job.
Regardless of my above statement, the fact is that you simply can't zoom or focus with either of those lenses mounted on a FlyCam. The reason being that they change in length when you adjust the zoom or focus. This alters the center of gravity on your camera, throwing your delicate balancing act out of the window. There are lenses out there that don't change in length when you zoom/focus (I believe, although I'm not a huge lens expert), but I'd imagine that the movement of the internal parts would still throw the balance. Perhaps somebody else could clarify on this?
You say you're filming sports. What sports and where are you shooting from? If, for example, you're shooting football and you're shooting from the sideline, is there some reason you can't just mount your camera on a tripod? How long are you shooting for, too? If we're talking 1 hour +, that's one hell of a long time to be holding your Steadicam! Good luck with that! Perhaps a shoulder mount would suit you better?
Regardless of my above statement, the fact is that you simply can't zoom or focus with either of those lenses mounted on a FlyCam. The reason being that they change in length when you adjust the zoom or focus. This alters the center of gravity on your camera, throwing your delicate balancing act out of the window. There are lenses out there that don't change in length when you zoom/focus (I believe, although I'm not a huge lens expert), but I'd imagine that the movement of the internal parts would still throw the balance. Perhaps somebody else could clarify on this?
You say you're filming sports. What sports and where are you shooting from? If, for example, you're shooting football and you're shooting from the sideline, is there some reason you can't just mount your camera on a tripod? How long are you shooting for, too? If we're talking 1 hour +, that's one hell of a long time to be holding your Steadicam! Good luck with that! Perhaps a shoulder mount would suit you better?
Yeah, a shoulder mount would be better. I am shooting football games and I did use a tripod but the coach wanted to actually see the "play" not completely far away so I needed to move the camera to follow the "play" which made it shaky and that was why I bought a steadicam. But yes, a shoulder mount would of been better,
When shooting sports don't use the zoom as you follow the play and use a
longer focal range to keep everything in focus. Shooting live sports in no
time for shallow depth-of-field. If you need to zoom in keep your camera on
sticks.
Not exactly what you asked but each camera stabilizing method has different
results.
longer focal range to keep everything in focus. Shooting live sports in no
time for shallow depth-of-field. If you need to zoom in keep your camera on
sticks.
Not exactly what you asked but each camera stabilizing method has different
results.
Going to mirror what others have said. In my experience (shooting basketball) if not on sticks, you want shoulder mount. Not sure why anyone would want a steadicam for sports-unless doing some sort of promo? But shoulder mount stabilizes the camera and when paired with an ENG lens, you have everything you want.
A technique I've used for fast paced shoulder stuff is with fujinons and similar lenses I use my index finger to control my iris, my pinky to focus and my middle to zoom-not as smooth as servo, but fast and lets me punch to the action right when I need it.
Now for you, I'd imagine you're shooting on some form of photo camera. Building out a shoulder mount may be costly to get you where you need to be. I'd recommend using sticks or a monopod. You'll have your hand freed up to zoom and focus, and with the monopod, you can pick up fast and plunk down in another spot quickly.
A technique I've used for fast paced shoulder stuff is with fujinons and similar lenses I use my index finger to control my iris, my pinky to focus and my middle to zoom-not as smooth as servo, but fast and lets me punch to the action right when I need it.
Now for you, I'd imagine you're shooting on some form of photo camera. Building out a shoulder mount may be costly to get you where you need to be. I'd recommend using sticks or a monopod. You'll have your hand freed up to zoom and focus, and with the monopod, you can pick up fast and plunk down in another spot quickly.