Matching stocks

[Zensteve]

So I'm planning a 16mm adventure... half will be outside, and half will be inside.

I've been reading through the Kodak description of their different negative stocks, and many of them have this in the description:

Add seamless intercutting with other KODAK VISION2 Films

I'm assuming that means the "grain" on almost all the Vision2 stock is essentially the same, meaning widely different film speeds can be used together with no discernable difference. Would that be correct?

Also, what would be a suitable minimum film speed for shooting in an underground parking garage... using just the garage's illumination. (Somewhat bright area, being close to the doors that lead to emergency stairwell).

Also... we all know how Super-8 has a certain "look". Is there any 16mm film stock that has the "look" from classic TV shows like "The Avengers"? Grainy-ish and old, with muted/dull colours. Everything I can find on Kodak is talking about how rich, saturated, low-grain, etc all the film is now.

I had a few more Qs as well, but they have slipped my mind for now.

 

[indietalk]

Also... we all know how Super-8 has a certain "look". Is there any 16mm film stock that has the "look" from classic TV shows like "The Avengers"? Grainy-ish and old, with muted/dull colours. Everything I can find on Kodak is talking about how rich, saturated, low-grain, etc all the film is now.

Reversal will be grainier, and you may want to experiment with cross-processing (processing reversal film as negative). You will get some intense false colors and enhanced grain. You can see this effect in films like Clockers.

 

[HailtotheKing]

Yeah you should be able to cut VISION2 stocks all together without noticing alot. But it'll all be in your lighting too!

If your shooting the the garage I would suggest the 500T or the 250D. You want a higher speed of film when your in a dark area, or are just dealing with the natural light that's coming into that area. It will really bring in the light you need, but not hurt your picture quailty as far as grain is concered.

All the film stocks being made now are rich in color and all that. Cross processing might help you get that dirty feel. You might try testing out some 100D for that look. Or filters can do alot for a look of the film too. Hope that helped you somewhat.

P.S. I thought I should mention that I haven't shot any of the above film stocks as of yet. So don't take my word....

 

[Shaw]

Unless you plan on editing the film itself via cutting don't forget that you can achieve many looks in the computer! I've done a bit of color grading in the past and it's really not too hard to match footage. Grain isn't much of a problem as it can be removed (or added) intelligently via After Effects. Color etc can be manipulated beatifully with synthetic apertures Color Finess.

The only place where you run into trouble is if you try to cut together stock that is fundamentally different in nature. Say reversal film and high end negative. The latitude difference will be distinctly less in the reversal film.

 

[indietalk]

don't forget that you can achieve many looks in the computer! ... Grain isn't much of a problem as it can be removed (or added) intelligently via After Effects.

Don't do it Zen!

 

[bird]

As far as I know, mixing hi-speed neg (not as sharp or as fine-grained) with slower negative stocks is not a hugh problem as they seem to be close enough in color rendition (BUT, they should be from the same manufacturer, so I wouldn't mix Kodak with another companies stock).

You can always stick with one stock for both indoor and outdoor and use a conversion filter for one or the other. Depending on which and how many filters you use, you will have a loss of anywhere from 2/3's to 2+ stops.

 

[Zensteve]

You can always stick with one stock for both indoor and outdoor and use a conversion filter for one or the other.

After reading this, I started looking into how those filters are used. Excellent suggestion.

I also fully understand the built-in filter on my Super-8 now, as well.

don't forget that you can achieve many looks in the computer! ... Grain isn't much of a problem as it can be removed (or added) intelligently via After Effects.


Don't do it Zen!

I'm really trying to avoid anything I might have to adjust. (Mainly as I don't have the patience for AEFX).

It may be hard to avoid though, trying to emulate a very old look... with basically no practice on even the ay the current stocks work.

I need to read some more, I think... I haven't looked up that cross-processing thing yet, that was mentioned by a few peeps.

Note to self: Watch "Clockers".

 

[cagexxi]

Have you ever shot slide film for still photography? This is essesntially what reversal is. It's cross-processed with regular chemistry and becomes a negative. This process can also work in reverse. You take negative film, process it through positive chemistry (E6 or VNF-1) and it becomes a positive. However, the yellow/orange masking that is inherent to negative film will remain in the color positive image.

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