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getting a good exposure

frustraiting ongoing problem..
when I'm recording a video on my t2i, the lcd screen shows good exposure, but as soon as I start editing the footage - image is either under or overexposed :(

What to you guys do to prevent this issue?? Any tips?
 
An article you didn't read...

Again, not arguing or attempting to change your mind. 99% of
what you have read suggests DP don't use meters any more which
is different from my experience on set. I admit to not reading that
much about it so I'm sure you're right. Of course everyone shooting
film still must use light meters, right?


Very true.

These are cameras designed to be used by still photographers who
always use light meters to set exposure. Again, this comes from my
experience working with still photographers and may be different than
what you read. So it seems to me that using a light meter would fix
the issue dlevanchuk is facing. And it seems to me someone making
a movie using a DSLR should at least consider using a light meter to
gauge exposure - as you point out, these cameras are different that
a camcorder in the same price range.

Anyway, I'm not suggesting anyone who can't or doesn't want to use
light meter should use one. There are always work arounds to everything.

Okay, everyone should get a light meter then I guess. Maybe someone can post a link to ebay or something.
 
Okay, everyone should get a light meter then I guess. Maybe someone can post a link to ebay or something.

Just do a search for light meter. You can pick up a good one for $100. Or you can spend as much/little as you want. I got a nice Sekonic for $75 I think.

Ambient light meter. I dont know if you would need a spot meter
 
Okay, everyone should get a light meter then I guess. Maybe someone can post a link to ebay or something.
I'm sorry you took my post this way.

If you would like some links to light meters, I'd be glad to post them.


Ambient light meter. I dont know if you would need a spot meter
A spot meter is nice but not necessary for general use. The problem
dlevanchuk has could be solved with a $75 Sekonic. Those screens on
a DSLR just aren't the best way to fully judge the overall exposure. But
there are other workarounds.
 
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I looked into the value of light meters again, The ASC DP's in fact did conclude that relying on light meters led to exposures that were 1-2 stops off. But these were tests with RED, Genesis, Viper, and Arri digital cameras, ie top shelf cinema cams. The light meters are designed to emulate the near-logarithmic response of silver halide film, and thus useless for setting exposure of a digital sensor. (adjusting lighting ratios on the other hand, that's a different story) They recommended to ALWAYS set exposure for a digital imaging system based on waveform, and histogram if you have access to such. But the tests weren't done with the types of cams most people here use, such as the Canon 5d. Barry Green, dunno what you think of that guy, would extend this thinking down the food chain, saying The waveform reflects what all the camera processing has done to the signal, and is the only truly accurate way to set exposure. It takes everything into account. If lacking a waveform, use zebras. A lightmeter can only be used as the vaguest tool for getting somewhere in the ballpark, but not for accurate setting of exposure.
Lightmeters are for film, or for scouting sets, or for setting a distinct ratio of lights, but exposure (on a video or digital cine camera) should be done using the appropriate mathematical digital tools, the waveform monitor and the zebras. But that's Barry Green's take, he's no ASC DP.
 
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