I do agree with you on your point that different lights give different looks, but there is no real point to using a 2.5K HMI, if you can get away with a 1.2K or even 575 by just upping your ISO a bit and not loosing on quality as these sensors are so god damn sensitive. It all depends on what you're shooting, but I don't see the point in all these overly huge lighting setups if you can go minimalist and get same results by just using todays technology to your advantage. I've actually done exactly this on location and it saved a lot of hassle, in a way that we didn't have to run extra power and saved money on equipment rental.
I wish some DOP's I know that made it big and are working on massive things would write blogs. One favourite quote from Rodney Charters, ASC, CSC, talk at Canon booth at NAB was that his actors on Dallas walked onto a scene and asked when he would start lighting and he just said that they were fully lit and good to go. Just lit with a single low output source, bug ISO cranked on the C300.
Give me a F5, F55 or C300 and I am comfortable shooting it at 6400 ISO and cut down on big HMI's for night shoots because I can get away with less!
Again, it completely depends on what you're shooting. And it depends on the contrast ratios you're aiming for. A 4k HMI might get you a super contrasty scene, whereas a 575w HMI with the ISO bumped up is going to decrease your contrast significantly. All of this comes down to how you want the thing to look, all the looks are different, and all the cameras perform differently.
I also wouldn't shoot on an F5 or C500 over an Alexa simply because they're slightly more sensitive, unless it was a shot that was just going to be physically too difficult to light.
Of course, minimalist is a style in and of itself - I haven't seen Dallas, but I would almost guarantee that the style of shooting fit the mood of the scene, and the style of the show.
That's awesome - but with Cinematography, there's no 'one size fits all' method, and whilst I might shoot on an F5 at 1250 ISO on one film with no lights, I might then shoot on an Alexa at 800 ISO with two trucks worth of lighting for a similar scene on a different film. One might be gritty and one might be polished. One might be a commercial.. They're all going to have different lighting styles, even if the scenes are similar.
On top of that, I tend to prefer to do my own testing when it comes to acceptable noise, rather than take a manufacturer's word as gospel. I rate the Alexa at 800 ISO, but have no qualms moving it around to adjust the DR to what I'm shooting.
I rate RED Epics and Scarlets somewhere between 320 and 400 ISO, simply because it tends to exhibit so much less noise than at the manufacturer's quoted 'native' ISO of 800.
Similarly, I tend to rate 500T film at 320 because I like the tighter grain. If I wanted something grittier, I might rate at 500, or push it to 800.
The new Sony cameras and the Canon Cx00 series I've yet to test extensively at higher ISOs but I imagine what I'd be comfortable rating them at would be different to what the manufacturer quotes as acceptable or 'native'.
I'll also add that 575w HMIs and 1.2K HMIs are great lights, as are their higher-powered bigger brothers. You'll likely struggle to get something that looks like moonlight out of a 575w or 1.2k, especially on a lower budget. There's a certain size and distance that you need to create if you're really going for that moonlight look.
But of course, that's okay - you can motivate the lower-powered guys however you want - but not every film is going to be averse to the 'moonlight' and not every film is going to have it's night scenes take place in areas where you can motivate your smaller HMIs as street lamps or similar.