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DSLR lighting settings?

When shooting on DSLR in low light, is it best to leave the ISO so that the image is dark on camera and then brighten it in post production or raise the ISO so that the video image is brighter on the camera display? I've finished shooting my first short film but am curious about the proper technique for my future projects.

I think I may have dramatically changed the shutter speed to compensate for lighting as well. ( 1/50, etc.)
 
I would certainly not shoot in higher ISO if I have access to prober lighting equipment.
post production does not improve the dynamic range of an already shot scene... from what I have experienced.

I am confused when u write about shutter speed... I thought u are shooting video in digital?
or are you taking still images?
 
i'm no expert, but i believe part of this answer depends on if you are recording raw, proRes, h.264, etc.. what format is your recording in?

if it's h.264 you will add a lot of noise trying to increase the light in post.
 
It really depends on your level of acceptable noise. What are you shooting? I'd be inclined to never shoot over 400 ISO on a standard DSLR, shooting narrative.

On a doco it might be different, on a hacked DSLR it might be different

It really depends on how much noise you're happy introducing into your shots. Then it's a matter of balancing the look you want versus the noise you're going to get - for example, you can't shoot in available light at night on a DSLR at 200 ISO - you either have to add light, or bump up the ISO, thereby adding noise.

On higher end cameras, it gets even more complicated, because your ISO also determines dynamic range. Therefore, I tend to select my ISO based on what I think looks better noise and DR-wise (it can change per film), then decide my shooting stop and light to that.

You should generally keep your shutter speed at 1/50 (or 180 degree) when shooting video, assuming you want more of that high-end camera 'motion blur' look.

The issue with both ways you're suggesting is you'd be introducing noise either way. Brightening the image in post introduces a whole lotta noise on 8-bit H.264 DSLR images. Similarly, bumping the ISO also introduces noise.

You need to introduce more light into your scenes.
 
OP, it helps when you ask questions like this if you tell us the gear you have - as this can have a huge impact on our answer: camera and lens?

And give us an example of the type of low light: cave, outside on the street with streetlights around, a room with a single small light etc?
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Exposure basics - regardless the camera.

Shutter at 1/2 the frame rate (24fps, 1/48 shutter)
- this stays unless you have a specific reason to change it.

Aperture (iris) set where you want it to get the Depth of Field you're looking for
- lower # = shallower DoF (less stuff in focus)

ISO as low as you can get it to properly expose the image
- caucasian skin around 80% exposure

Add light to keep the ISO lower. You'll often need to compromise between the ISO and Aperture to get the correct exposure with the ISO low enough to not look like crap (grainy).
 
Nikon D3200 with stock lens; .mov files. I didn't have proper lighting equipment at all, so I messed with the ISO and shutter speed settings quite a bit.

Example of low light: interior of car with no light in the backseat.

Also, sometimes when the shutter speed was at 1/50 (24 fps) with an ISO of 200 outdoors, the image appeared predominantly white.
 
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Nikon D3200 with stock lens; .mov files. I didn't have proper lighting equipment at all, so I messed with the ISO and shutter speed settings quite a bit.

Example of low light: interior of car with no light in the backseat.

Also, sometimes when the shutter speed was at 1/50 (24 fps) with an ISO of 200 outdoors, the image appeared predominantly white.

outside with an open aperture you need a neutral density filter in front of your lens
 
outside with an open aperture you need a neutral density filter in front of your lens

Or stop down the iris (bigger F/ numbers). There's a photography rule called sunny 16. Outside in full sunlight, with aperture (iris) at f/16, match the ISO and shutter speed and you get a properly exposed shot. Since we want 1/48th or there a bouts, we want an ISO of 50 (not an option). So ISO 100 and an ND filter (or stop down the iris to f/22) will get you about where you want.

As for the car interior… add light. Use anything you can get your hands on at this stage. Your camera wants light.

If your camera will let you down to f/1.8 or lower, go there. Focus will suck, especially closer to the camera, but it'll let the most light in. Crank up the ISO to 800 (no higher), then add light to get your exposure. A cell phone/iPad flash light bounced against a pice of notebook paper will suffice in this confined space.
 
When shooting on DSLR in low light, is it best to leave the ISO so that the image is dark on camera and then brighten it in post production or raise the ISO so that the video image is brighter on the camera display? I've finished shooting my first short film but am curious about the proper technique for my future projects.

I think I may have dramatically changed the shutter speed to compensate for lighting as well. ( 1/50, etc.)
To get the lowest amount of noise, you want to light properly, and darken it in post. You have to pay particular attention to the DIFFERENCE in light, and a light meter would really help.

Faced with shooting in a dark environment, you want to raise the ISO as high as you dare to get the best exposure possible. This will introduce much less noise than shooting dark at a lower ISO and raising the levels in post. Both will introduce a lot of noise, however.
 
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