Blackmagic Pocket Hands-on

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OR:
How does this tiny camera really hold up?

OR:
Should I spend my hard-earned money on this over a DSLR?

So I've been super busy lately, but finally had a chance to sit down and write out some thoughts on the Blackmagic Pocket that I shot a little music video on a few weeks ago. Many here already have one, but many are still considering the purchase.

The first thing I noticed when I picked up the camera was just how small it was. I knew it wasn't going to be very big, but I was still a little taken aback by the fact that it really is tiny. It certainly does live up to it's namesake and fit in your pocket (at least, without a lens on).
It looks and feels like a compact point-and-shoot, but the screen is a fair amount larger than most point-and-shoot cameras I've used in the past, which is most definitely a good thing.

The screen is also uncluttered, exactly the same as it's older brother, the BMCC. The menu, however, is a tad more clunky to use. The menu is also a carbon copy of the BMCC menu - but the BMCC menu is designed for a touchscreen. The arrow buttons on the BMPC feel cheap, and they take a decent push. The fact that you have to select left to turn something on and off, even though an option might be a check box and common sense would dictate you should be able to use the 'OK' button just makes it feel a little cheap (but then, it is a cheap camera).

The camera is super light. In comparison, the BMCC feels like a brick. The BMPC doesn't feel much heavier than my iPhone 4S.
Until you put a lens on. Because the body is so light, any lens (even the Panasonic 12- 35mm, which isn't very big at all) makes it incredibly front heavy. This means it's incredibly difficult to use handheld without some sort of rig (or at least be able to pull focus at the same time).
Because of it's size, however, it's a great camera for times when you need to guerilla a location or be inconspicuous. We shot in a large cathedral - my 'rig' was simply a C-Stand spigot that I used for stability. We didn't draw any more attention than any of the tourists taking photos on their point and shoot's - which is not something I could say for any other camera, including even a sparsely rigged out DSLR.

Because there are mounting pins on the top and bottom (like the BMCC), this opens up a lot of opportunity for some easy, awesome shots. You could quite easily screw a spigot into the camera, and mount it on a C-stand for an instant top-down or high shot, or use the C-stand as a poor man's jib. There are so many places, and cool shots I can think of that I could simply not get away with using any other camera, or I'd at least need some decent safety lines and security, and expensive hardware.

Unfortunately, the Blackmagic firmware just doesn't offer a lot of information or capability. I could only get one SD card to work (a 64GB thankfully), but of course you can't format cards in the camera itself. I'm not so fussed with not being able to delete files, but without being able to format the card, you should at least be able to delete files. This means having a laptop on set, but given the smaller file sizes of ProRes, and the fact that it's only an SD card, it's a lot easier to wrangle on set than it is with the BMCC. We shot ProRes in 'Film' gamma. I kinda hate the colours in 'Video' mode, I'm not sure if it's simply a strange LUT or what's going on, but it can look pretty ugly. It doesn't happen all the time (perhaps another quirks) but when it does it just looks strange. Even putting the Blackmagic Film to Video LUT on in Resolve looks average. Grading from scratch yields much nicer results.

As well, whilst there's the option to show two different levels of Zebra, that's all you get in terms of exposure tools. Personally, I find that a little underwhelming, and I wonder how difficult it really would be to add a false colour check or even a histogram.

Thankfully, we've got interchangeable batteries with the Pocket, without the need for a third-party adapter, which is awesome. Unfortunately, however, the camera chews through the batteries. I'm somewhat used to this, and we usually have charging stations set up for RED, Alexa etc. shoots - but for those coming from DSLRs which have quite good battery life, this might be a bit of a shock. We were shooting all exteriors, but we had a generator for lighting, so we were able to use it to charge batteries.
We had four batteries - you wouldn't get a whole day's worth of shooting out of four fully charged batteries, in fact if I had to shoot a full 10hr day of run'n'gun and no ability to charge, I'd want probably double (8ish+).

I was constantly turning the camera off, and only turning it on when I needed to frame up or when I knew we were about to roll. Frustratingly, the power button can be a little finicky, and whilst it responded appropriately 80% of the time, there was a good 20% of the time where I attempted to turn it off (and thought I had) only to realise it was actually on. Similarly, the Play button can be finicky. Most of the time it worked fine, but there were times when it simply didn't do anything, and a reboot was required to get it to work (though at least a reboot can happen in seconds).
Even more frustratingly, turning the camera off resets the aperture if you're working with a still lens with electronic aperture. When you turn the camera back on, the aperture sets to the optimum for what the camera is pointed at when it turns on (similar to pressing the 'iris' button). Sometimes this isn't much of an issue (especially when shooting night), but it can be irksome to have to reset the camera to your desired shooting stop. A manual lens would not exhibit this issue. The auto focus is also incredibly hit and miss, and is worse than even a mediocre DSLR auto focus. I'd press the 'Focus' button and it would attempt to find focus, get really close and then throw it way off, as if throwing a tantrum because it can't figure out where the point of focus is. Every now and then it would get it right, but I found it was mostly useless, as even when it did get it right, it took an incredible amount of time to do so. It didn't seem to change it's behaviour based on the lighting conditions or the complexity of things in the frame - I gave it easy, well lit frames to focus on and it couldn't do it, but then similar frames it worked just fine with. I did find the less light you give it, the more likely it is to 'spazz out' and not have any idea what you want to focus on.
It's easier and quicker to wrangle focus yourself, though as I mentioned above you may have a hard time of it without some sort of rig (or tripod).
Oddly, you can't bring up Focus Peaking, which (from the reading I've done) seems like it was a feature of an earlier firmware. Would be nice to have an option in the menu to be able to change what the Focus button does (between auto focus and focus peaking) because 9/10 times Focus Peaking is going to be more useful than the awful job of auto-focussing it does (or any auto-focus, really).[highlight]Update: See below; Focus Peaking and Expanded Focus available, just with weird button pushes ;).[/highlight]

This camera's strong point is the images you get out of it. It's no Alexa, or even a RED, but I much prefer the image to anything you can get out of a DSLR. It certainly has an essence of DSLR footage, but I'd rather shoot on this than any DSLR if image quality was the first thing I was worried about (and as a DP, it always is ;)). You can push it around a lot more in post, and IMO it just simply looks better. I didn't get a chance to run some proper tests, but the 13-stop dynamic range figure seems a little unrealistic. There's certainly more dynamic range than a DSLR (which generally have maybe 4-6 useable stops), but 13 may be a bit of a stretch if we're talking about usable stops. Having said that, I haven't done a proper test of the BMPC's dynamic range, so I can't really say for certain, but there were a few times where I had clipped highlights and I felt for sure that an Alexa would have picked them up easily (and then some). It certainly seemed to have a useable dynamic range sitting somewhere between a DSLR and RED Scarlet (I tend to rate the RED Scarlet/Epic at ~12 stops of DR). Of course, even a Scarlet is ~10x the price of a BMPC, and IMO any improvement on the dynamic range of a DSLR is worth paying for.

The highlight clipping certainly looks 'video-ey' but it still looks better than any time you have a DSLR clip; mostly because of the extra dynamic range afforded in the rest of the image.

The cameras small(ish) sensor means it's not an incredible low-light performer, but it makes up for it with a native 800 ISO rating. If I'm shooting DSLR, I'm wary of pushing past 640 ISO because of the noise, but the BMPC is a strong performer at 800. Shooting at 400 ISO doesn't really provide much difference in terms of noise, but pushing up to 1600 ISO certainly does introduce more noise, though I wasn't too unhappy with it. I'd certainly be okay with shooting at 1600 ISO on the BMPC if I had to - I'd never shoot at 1600 ISO on a DSLR. I wasn't able to do side-by-side comparisons between a DSLR and the BMPC.

I didn't get a chance to use S16 lenses on it, but this is where I think the camera will really shine. The thing I was mostly unhappy about with the image was the performance of the cheap still lens that was on it, so with some nice glass on it, I think it'll be great.
I'd love to shoot with Superspeeds on it. Shooting somewhere between f/1.4 and f/2.0 at 800 or 1600 ISO would be great for those who want to shoot low light, and it would allow you and your Focus Puller a bit more depth of field than the razor-thin DOF you get on a 5D or similar.

Overall, I quite like the images out of the Pocket. I'd be unlikely to use it as an A-cam on any but the smallest of budgets that simply can't afford anything else, but I'd happily use it as a 2nd, 3rd or 4th cam for coverage, pickups or for rigging in some really awesome place that no other camera (other than a GoPro) could get to.

At the price that it is, you can't really go wrong.

The footage we shot is currently going through the post process, if I get a bit more time I might be able to post up some stills (graded vs ungraded) and perhaps some footage.
 
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jax, you rock - great review from a real professional DP instead of an amateur like me :). One minor nit - you can get to focus peaking on the BMPCC with system lenses by hitting the "Focus" button twice in quick succession. You can also get the expanded focus by hitting the "OK" button twice. You have to do it quickly, or you'll get the slate. It is possible to access both features at the same time.

Crazy system, and not very intuitive, but I have found that access to focus peaking and/or expanded focus enables critical focus in just about any lighting condition.

I have also found that the autofocus feature actually works with the Olympus 11-22mm f2.8-3.5 classic 4/3 lens adapted to the BMPCC with the MA1 - while it is hit or miss with the Panasonic 14-140. Strange - and something Blackmagic should fix.

My filmmaking is in the "smallest of budgets that simply can't afford anything else" category, so the $995US BMPCC is a great A-cam for me.

Cheers and thank you for taking the time to share this,

Bill
 
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One minor nit - you can get to focus peaking on the BMPCC with system lenses by hitting the focus button twice in quick succession - and you can get the expanded focus by hitting the menu button twice. Crazy, I know, but I have found that access to focus peaking and/or expanded focus solves the focus problem in just about any lighting condition.

Ah! Perhaps I should have read the manual (if only I had the time ;))!

I'm glad that you can get both Peaking and Expanded Focus, though it would make more sense to me to have auto focus and focus peaking selectable in the menu, and then pressing the Focus button twice brings up expanded focus...
At least it's there!
 
It's strange, I actually like the "Video" mode for certain uses. Sure it definitely looks weird sometimes, but I find that it can be easily corrected and graded in Speedgrade CC in little to no time. But that's just my opinion.

Nice review
 
It's strange, I actually like the "Video" mode for certain uses. Sure it definitely looks weird sometimes, but I find that it can be easily corrected and graded in Speedgrade CC in little to no time. But that's just my opinion.

95% of the time I shoot some flavour of raw or log, if I'm shooting on a camera that can do so. The only time I'd shoot REC709 is on a project that doesn't have the time (quick turnaround) or money for a proper grade. Therefore, IMO it seems pointless to shoot Video if you're going to be grading it anyway - you may as well shoot 'Film' and preserve the extra detail.

Also, for those projects where they're not sure if they can afford a proper grade or not, shooting Log (or 'Film') forces their hand somewhat to at least get someone who knows what they're doing to grade it, or at at the very least send it back to me so I can grade it.
 
What's the best solution for getting a wide image ?

Other than S16 cine lenses, probably the new pocket cam speedbooster:

http://www.metabones.com/article/of...bmpcc-speed-boosters-available-starting-today

Drops the crop factor from around 2.88x to 1.75x. I'm planning to combine that with the sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 for my general use lens - at the wide end will give roughly a 31mm equivalent. With the tamron 11-16mm f/2.8 you'll get the equivalent of 19-28mm, which should cover most wide needs.

It also gives you a gain of just over a stop and two-thirds of exposure, so that 1.8 becomes a f1.1 and the 2.8 is a f/1.6 in terms of exposure. The DOF would remain roughly the same as the native lens aperture value though so you get the additional light without razor-thin focus.

On the one project I've shot on the pocket in low light we did some shooting at 1600 that was still about a stop under. It was noisy, but the noise cleaned up really well with neat video and the exposure pulled up cleanly in post - the end result was certainly better than what I'd get out of my 5DmkII at an equivalent iso 3200. So with the additional exposure from the speed booster the pocket should work well in low light assuming you're willing to work with it in post.
 
I've had it for a while now, I'm not a huge fan of the camera.

First, it's not really fair to call it a $1000 camera, because you can't really use it out of the box with anything other than a pancake lens. With most cameras, a rail/support system isn't a true necessity. They're nice, don't get me wrong, but you can shoot without them in most scenarios should you need to. You NEED lens support with the BMPCC. On the cheap, cheap cheap side you're looking at an extra $200, but the going rate for a standard kit is over $500.

Second, lens options suck. I know brunerww will disagree with me, but the lens options for MFT are not as good as EF or most other systems unless you spend some real money. Because of the crazy crop factor, you have to stay on the wider end of the lens spectrum. You won't find a wide, and fast, and cheap lens. I know MFT is a highly adaptable mount, it can take almost anything, but only if it's a manual lens. Modern lenses aren't being made manual in mass quantities. Rokinon makes some, and they're good, but they still look better on a Canon because of the crop factor. You can find tons of old lenses, but they're that, old lenses. Yes, there is the speed booster, but again you're paying for it. $500. Yes, you can go with higher end cine lenses like Zeiss, but again you'll pay for that too (and I'd still argue they'd look better on a Canon).

Canon and Nikon make great lenses for their cameras in a relatively affordable price range. They're companies with a legacy of great glass AND great cameras. Panasonic and Sony and the like are making cameras first and glass second. Then Olympus and Pentax and the others out there have always been the B market behind the big boys. You pay less and get less.

Finally, though small, the battery life sucks. Granted they're small batteries, but I'll go through 2 or three before I change a Canon DSLR battery on the same set. I'll go through 3-5 before I change the FS700 battery. Again, it's small, but worth noting.

So, add in support ($200-500), the Speed booster needed to make up for slower lenses on an extreme crop sensor) and a small army of batteries you're looking at $1800-2300 for a functioning camera body.

Oh, and you have to use the fastest SD cards out there. They're $120 for 128gb which will record about 70 minutes of ProRes or 30-40 minutes of RAW. Still, since you're shooting in higher bitrates you'll be paying a lot on any camera.

All that said, if I was buying again and I had to go blackmagic, I'd pick up the 2.5k in an EF mount. $2000, uses the best budget mount out there, throw in a V-Mount or Anton Bauer mount and battery ($100-350) and cheaper-fast storage via SSD.

Out of cameras I currently and use weekly in the field, the Canon 7d, 5DmkIII and the BMPCC, the BMPCC is my C camera, only break it out for special situations and will probably end up selling it. I paid $2800 for my 5Diii compared to $2000 cost of ownership for the BMPCC and the 5Diii looks WAY better. Still get RAW as well via Magic Lantern.

EDIT:

Forgot to talk about the controls haha. It take longer to set up because all the settings are buried in menus vs having most of the stuff you need via buttons and dials on the body.

I know I'm harsh on the little camera. It's still a good camera that makes a good image. I think my review is a fair warning that it's not the low-budget magic bullet like a lot of people were hoping for.
 
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Paul I 100% agree with you about the camera needing support. I happened to find the "Gini Quick Release Rig" for $299. It's cheaper then most rigs, all metal, and the follow focus that comes with it is great and works flawlessly.

I also agree with you about the lens options out there. I purchased a Panasonic 14-45mm "kit" lens ($299) and while it gets the job done, it's not ideal. The only other MFT lens I'd even consider buying is the Slr Magic 12mm. It's not as expensive as some lenses I've seen, but definitely not inexpensive ($600). I would get the Speedbooster if I could because of all the praise on other websites, but it's $500 and then I have to go buy other Nikon lenses which would raise the price even higher.

Then there is the menu system, I get why it would be so much better to have all the controls on button like canon cameras. However, I find that it only took me a little time to get used to the menus and I find that I can navigate them pretty quickly (maybe that's due to me playing video games and being used to mashing buttons quickly).
Plus I don't think it is a bad menu system. I mean everything is there where I would expect it.

Battery life does stink, but it's not atrocious (Although I still recommend 5+ batteries).

Overall I think people need to know and research what they are buying! For me, I knew all of the complaints with this camera before I bought it. But, they did not really bother me because I bought this camera for the image. So far, I am not disappointed at all with it.
Would I buy a 5d mark III if I could? Maybe, but I don't have $3300 to spend (sold one for a friend on eBay at that price).

Overall I payed $1800 for Body, lens, card, batteries, and rig.
At 54% of the cost of the Mark III I think this camera is a great buy!
 
First, it's not really fair to call it a $1000 camera, because you can't really use it out of the box with anything other than a pancake lens. With most cameras, a rail/support system isn't a true necessity. They're nice, don't get me wrong, but you can shoot without them in most scenarios should you need to. You NEED lens support with the BMPCC. On the cheap, cheap cheap side you're looking at an extra $200, but the going rate for a standard kit is over $500.
I have to disagree here. You 'NEED' lens support on the BMPCC with a long lens just as much as you need a lens support on an Epic with an Angie 24-290 or other long lens. It comes down to lens and camera choice. No camera comes with lens supports, rails, etc. out of the box, even though many setups need them.

I'd still call an Epic a $25,000 camera, or a Scarlet an $8,000 camera even though you can't even record a single frame of footage without buying extra (costly) add-ons. A Blackmagic kit is still the cheapest kit you're going to get versus quality.

Yes, you can go with higher end cine lenses like Zeiss, but again you'll pay for that too (and I'd still argue they'd look better on a Canon).
Maybe on a C300 or a C500, but they're a bit out of the price range. Maybe on a 5D with a Ninja or similar attached, but even then there's an incredible price difference between the two. Personally I prefer the BMPCC image to any DSLR I've seen or used, and I'd rather put a set of Superspeeds on it, than CP.2s on a 5D, if those were my only two options.

Finally, though small, the battery life sucks. Granted they're small batteries, but I'll go through 2 or three before I change a Canon DSLR battery on the same set. I'll go through 3-5 before I change the FS700 battery. Again, it's small, but worth noting.
This is definitely annoying, but if you know that it's an issue you can deal with it. I've been on Alexa shoots where our batteries last 15-25 minutes, which is significantly less than the BMPCC batteries, despite the fact that even they don't last very long.
It will be a shock and annoying for those used to longer battery life, but it just takes a little adjustment. If we can have charging stations and enough batteries (sometimes 15-20, and two four-way chargers on Steadicam days - with $1,000 per piece batteries and $500+ chargers) on Alexa shoots, surely newbies can figure it out for BMPCC shoots?

Oh, and you have to use the fastest SD cards out there. They're $120 for 128gb which will record about 70 minutes of ProRes or 30-40 minutes of RAW. Still, since you're shooting in higher bitrates you'll be paying a lot on any camera.
A 400' can of S16 negative used to cost ~$200-$300+, for 10 minutes of footage, plus processing at .25-50c/foot, then telecine at $500/hr...
And film, of course, isn't re-usable like a card
Not saying $120 for a card isn't expensive, but all in perspective... I know everyone wants to be able to shoot like Hollywood for $50 these days, but $120 for 40-70 minutes of high quality capture is still pretty decent.

...it's not the low-budget magic bullet like a lot of people were hoping for.
Coming soon: Red Giant Magic Bullet Camera? ;)
 
Sorry, it was a typo, I meant the 64gb card for $120.

Good points for sure Jax. Most of my comparisons on what you need to function were aimed at cameras closer to the price range but I hear you.

Still, after using both, I'll take RAW our of the Magic Lantern 5D over RAW out of the BMPCC pretty much any day :)
 
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