looking for a light meter
- Thread starter WhiteOpus
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The more expensive ones have more features, obviously.. one of the more useful of which being that you can program them with different camera profiles, so you can dial in your readings specific to the sensors and glass you're using, so it's not just "ok this is how much light is here" it's more of a "this is how my camera will see this"
You can get a sekonic L-478D from B&H for about $340, or if you can scrape together about $100 more you can get the same with a gray balance card, and x-rite color chart.
Also, you should be able to find older model sekonics on ebay for a steal from time to time.
You can get a sekonic L-478D from B&H for about $340, or if you can scrape together about $100 more you can get the same with a gray balance card, and x-rite color chart.
Also, you should be able to find older model sekonics on ebay for a steal from time to time.
I lolled.
Assuming they both do spot metering, there is no difference for you except maybe a touch screen. The $900 one is not 4.5x as good as the $200 one, because you will not know how to take advantage of the features. It will have things like shutter angle which will make no sense unless you're using film.
Also, $200 can get you a decent used one.... a $200 new one probably won't have a spot meter function which is used a lot.
I have an ancient digital one with a spot meter attachment, but I rarely pull it out... if I were doing this full-time or doing multi-day shoots on the same set or different crew or changing lighting through the day, I'd probably use it a lot more to record the lighting of a scene so that it could be replicated perfectly as things change.
It depends what you're shooting and the quality required.
If you're doing a scene that lasts 2 minutes in a movie, but the scene takes all day to shoot and has windows, you will want a light meter so that as the light outside changes, you can adjust/add light so that the shadows aren't constantly changing over the course of a movie minute.
If you're doing a scene and might need to change locations or revisit the same location and have the same light, then you want a light meter.
If you're not good at setting proper exposures, you want a light meter.
But if you won't actually use the meter, then don't bother buying one.
The meter inside a DSLR is basically a spot meter, which meters reflected light. This can usually be center spot, or center-average, which merely changes whether the exposure point is averaged or not.
If you want to have more control over your lighting and exposure, I would suggest getting a dedicated light meter. Your 6D's spot meter will always give you the values that would expose an 18% gray card correctly. The best way to expose a scene is to inform yourself about the theory behind exposure and make informed decisions about where you want your exposure to sit, based on the lighting you have available to you and the mood you want to set.
Do a search on the light meters for the iPhone (if you have one). I read a review of one recently.
They loved it for the price (I think $200).
Basically it's a device you attach you your cell phone, combined with the free App, you have a damn good light meter.
Update, found the link for you:
http://www.cinema5d.com/lumu-light-meter-for-smartphones-video/
They loved it for the price (I think $200).
Basically it's a device you attach you your cell phone, combined with the free App, you have a damn good light meter.
Update, found the link for you:
http://www.cinema5d.com/lumu-light-meter-for-smartphones-video/
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Do a search on the light meters for the iPhone (if you have one). I read a review of one recently.
They loved it for the price (I think $200).
Basically it's a device you attach you your cell phone, combined with the free App, you have a damn good light meter.
Update, found the link for you:
http://www.cinema5d.com/lumu-light-meter-for-smartphones-video/
Hrm, those meters are off from each other by half a stop. If it's that inaccurate, I wouldn't buy it.
True, although the default is scene exposure for pretty much all the cameras. On the 6D I think you can set it to center weighted and maybe tighter. But you have to do it in the menu system.
Also, set up a C-config to put your camera in a known state to record the meter output of number of stops over/under and you can always get back to that state by rotating the main function dial on top of the camera. I think the 6D has one user C config. The meter will obviously change as the settings change.... A chair showing underexposure will show overexposure if you crank up the ISO enough, which is why you need to keep settings constant when you meter with your camera.
Although I've been a stills photographer for some decades, and have a very fine light meter (a Sekonic L-608, thanks for asking), for the first three short films we shot I didn't use it. I found it easier to use the histogram on the camera and the false colour on the Ninja-2. This was especially true when shooting outdoors using a variable ND, where it's impossible to know exactly what the exposure compensation needs to be for the filter.
I'm not saying don't use a meter - I now do, not least for setting up lights (useful for knowing relative light levels in different parts of the scene). But there's a lot you can do without one - eg, by using a decent size grey card (Lastolite do a useful folding one) with your camera's meter. Or get a cheap meter off eBay - spot metering is nice but not essential. This is if budget is tight. If you're rich, ignore what I just said.
I'm not saying don't use a meter - I now do, not least for setting up lights (useful for knowing relative light levels in different parts of the scene). But there's a lot you can do without one - eg, by using a decent size grey card (Lastolite do a useful folding one) with your camera's meter. Or get a cheap meter off eBay - spot metering is nice but not essential. This is if budget is tight. If you're rich, ignore what I just said.
here, you might consider this one. works perfectly and under any condition.
the little additional part in the front is the spot meter, you can remove it if you like.
it is super cheap and it will work for your whole life.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WORKS-Expos...019804?pt=US_Light_Meters&hash=item4d23dabddc
the little additional part in the front is the spot meter, you can remove it if you like.
it is super cheap and it will work for your whole life.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WORKS-Expos...019804?pt=US_Light_Meters&hash=item4d23dabddc
The old meters work consistently in any conditions, but $87 w/shipping seems really expensive for something you can find for $10 in a pawn shop or $5 at goodwill if you're lucky.
If you can't find a spot attachment, you can use the translucent semi-globe, and use incident metering in different areas, aiming the hemisphere at the camera. You have to walk around to meter, but that's still a pretty good use for such an old meter style. And yeah, they last forever and don't need batteries.
I didn't even think of using an old analog light meter. That's a good idea.
@stef
you are totally right, the one i've posted was totally overpriced, it was just an example to show the model.
the lunasix is the best lightmeter i know, i have mine for nearly 30 years now and it is still working perfectly.
some people sell them for as little as 10 bucks, but in many cases they dont have the spotmeter extension,
and this is a very very usefull feature. so if you buy it, better pay 10 bucks more but make sure you have the spotmeter too.
you are totally right, the one i've posted was totally overpriced, it was just an example to show the model.
the lunasix is the best lightmeter i know, i have mine for nearly 30 years now and it is still working perfectly.
some people sell them for as little as 10 bucks, but in many cases they dont have the spotmeter extension,
and this is a very very usefull feature. so if you buy it, better pay 10 bucks more but make sure you have the spotmeter too.
Yes, our main monitor has a nice false color feature that usually subs for a light meter. To me the real heavy lifting of the light meter is knowing what you have in the partially lit areas more than the key light right on the talent's face.