Hey everyone. So today I bought the T3i! And 75-300 mm lens! Im excited! Just one thing though. How do I get the best picture out of this camera? What should the shutter speed be for 24 fps and 30 fps? What about Magic Lantern? Thanks
I got the T3i!!
- Thread starter DesperadoMan17
- Start date
Saturation and contrast down 1 or two notches from the Natural setting, and the sharpening down as far as it'll go.. If you want it sharpened, do it later in the NLE where you'll have more control over it.
Learn your exposure triangle: Aperture, Shutter speed (normally locked at 1/48 or 1/50, with frame rate at 24fps), and ISO. Each does something different to the image, so it is a balancing act that you manage when setting up your shots.
Aperture = Depth of Field + amount of light (quantity)
Shutter Speed = amount of Motion Blur + amount of light (time)
ISO = Graininess + amount of light (amplification)
If you want more DoF, you have to sacrifice some of the Motion blur (shutter speed) and/or the image clarity (ISO)... they're tied together to get exposure, lowering one means raising another and balancing the sacrifices.
Look at light. the camera only captures the light that hits it. Photography/cinematography is lighting.
Magic Lantern is most useful once you understand the basics, although the meters available through it are fantastic for visualizing the info above. The primary fix for it freezing your camera is to remove the battery, then put it back in. Never heard of an incident that couldn't be fixed that way. It resides on your SD card and runs from there. Booting your camera with the trashcan button held down bypasses it to the regular Canon firmware. I use it and love it.
I'd add an 18-80 or so lens to your kit if you're looking at using zoom lenses, if you do more dimly lit stuff, look into primes with lower f-stop numbers that allow more light through a bigger hole (and narrow your depth of field at the same time)... but I like long lenses, I think images from them look more painterly and cinematic. It also forces the camera back farther allowing your subjects to feel less claustrophobic when you're shooting them.
If you tend to shoot in tighter spaces, you'll want to get a wider lens though as the long lens you've got (which goes from closeup length to quite telephoto in terms of it's distance compression effect on the frame -- background appears closer to the subject). Getting a decent "single" shot of a subject in a smaller room will require you to put the camera outside and shoot through a window or door, perhaps using a mirror to redirect the shot, then flipping horizontally in post.
Having 18 - 300 with 2 lenses will be a great starting kit for you though and allow you much greater control over your image.
Learn your exposure triangle: Aperture, Shutter speed (normally locked at 1/48 or 1/50, with frame rate at 24fps), and ISO. Each does something different to the image, so it is a balancing act that you manage when setting up your shots.
Aperture = Depth of Field + amount of light (quantity)
Shutter Speed = amount of Motion Blur + amount of light (time)
ISO = Graininess + amount of light (amplification)
If you want more DoF, you have to sacrifice some of the Motion blur (shutter speed) and/or the image clarity (ISO)... they're tied together to get exposure, lowering one means raising another and balancing the sacrifices.
Look at light. the camera only captures the light that hits it. Photography/cinematography is lighting.
Magic Lantern is most useful once you understand the basics, although the meters available through it are fantastic for visualizing the info above. The primary fix for it freezing your camera is to remove the battery, then put it back in. Never heard of an incident that couldn't be fixed that way. It resides on your SD card and runs from there. Booting your camera with the trashcan button held down bypasses it to the regular Canon firmware. I use it and love it.
I'd add an 18-80 or so lens to your kit if you're looking at using zoom lenses, if you do more dimly lit stuff, look into primes with lower f-stop numbers that allow more light through a bigger hole (and narrow your depth of field at the same time)... but I like long lenses, I think images from them look more painterly and cinematic. It also forces the camera back farther allowing your subjects to feel less claustrophobic when you're shooting them.
If you tend to shoot in tighter spaces, you'll want to get a wider lens though as the long lens you've got (which goes from closeup length to quite telephoto in terms of it's distance compression effect on the frame -- background appears closer to the subject). Getting a decent "single" shot of a subject in a smaller room will require you to put the camera outside and shoot through a window or door, perhaps using a mirror to redirect the shot, then flipping horizontally in post.
Having 18 - 300 with 2 lenses will be a great starting kit for you though and allow you much greater control over your image.