Hey everyone. So today I bought the T3i! And 75-300 mm lens! Im excited! Just one thing though. How do I get the best picture out of this camera? What should the shutter speed be for 24 fps and 30 fps? What about Magic Lantern? Thanks
I got the T3i!!
- Thread starter DesperadoMan17
- Start date
Congrats. 
Personally I like the look of 24p at 1/100 shutter speed, I don't know about 30p though.
Also, make sure when you start shooting, shoot with a flat color profile (saturation set to -2, contrast -2 and just leave the sharpness alone) so that you can have more flexibility with color in post.
As for Magic Lantern- if you were asking does it work with the t3i, then yes it does.
Personally I like the look of 24p at 1/100 shutter speed, I don't know about 30p though.
Also, make sure when you start shooting, shoot with a flat color profile (saturation set to -2, contrast -2 and just leave the sharpness alone) so that you can have more flexibility with color in post.
As for Magic Lantern- if you were asking does it work with the t3i, then yes it does.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8BzeZEGEYY
This was the most helpful tutorial to me.
This was the most helpful tutorial to me.
It's good, but there is one thing that may bother you.
Magic Lantern is not made by Canon, nor does Canon endorse it. If Magic Lantern messes up your camera, or you have issues, Canon is not responsible.
I heard a story about a guy who ruined his 5D with Magic Lantern.
Not saying you shouldn't get it... it gives you much better results. But for now, just stick with the T3i without Magic Lantern. Get used to the menu and features, Magic Lantern is much more advanced and difficult to navigate.
1/50th would be closest to the traditional film shutter speed at 24p. Go much higher than that and it will cut motion blur and make things more choppy - think Gladiator fight scenes or opening of Saving Private Ryan. Slower than that and you smooth out the motion too much, ends up looking more like video than film.
I'd say get to know the camera first before messing around with magic lantern. Intuitive's recommendation on the color profile is good, although personally I start with the neutral profile and then drop the contrast all the way down, saturation down 1 step. I think sharpness should go all the way down too - I can't stand what it does to the picture, but some people don't mind so you may just have to test it yourself.
I'd say get to know the camera first before messing around with magic lantern. Intuitive's recommendation on the color profile is good, although personally I start with the neutral profile and then drop the contrast all the way down, saturation down 1 step. I think sharpness should go all the way down too - I can't stand what it does to the picture, but some people don't mind so you may just have to test it yourself.
Shutter speed = double the frame rate its the generally accepted rule.
Magic Lantern is great. It's only as complicated as you want to make it. The simple operations are easy to find and figure out. I've never heard of anybody having a problem with it. The firmware is booted from your SD card, not installed onto the camera. Therefore, no Magic Lantern on the SD card, no Magic Lantern on the camera. That's not to say it will not mess up your camera; it might. The Magic Lantern website includes a disclaimer to that effect.
As for shooting flat - install the Technicolor Cinestyle profile.... It works like a charm!
Magic Lantern is great. It's only as complicated as you want to make it. The simple operations are easy to find and figure out. I've never heard of anybody having a problem with it. The firmware is booted from your SD card, not installed onto the camera. Therefore, no Magic Lantern on the SD card, no Magic Lantern on the camera. That's not to say it will not mess up your camera; it might. The Magic Lantern website includes a disclaimer to that effect.
As for shooting flat - install the Technicolor Cinestyle profile.... It works like a charm!
What NLE are you using, and where are the soon-to-come videos going to be seen?
If on youtube know that computers display at 29.97FPS, so... you might as well start shooting at the closest approximation = 30FPS, and adjust your shutter speed accordingly: 2X FPS = 1/60.
http://documentation.apple.com/en/cinematools/usermanual/index.html#chapter=2§ion=5&tasks=true
Furthermore, your NLE will probably limit a project's output, which again will be constrained by its final output source, most often being a computer or digital equivalent.
You may shoot in 24FPS + 1/50 shutter speed and edit @ 24FPS in the NLE, but odds are most people are going to see whatever it is on a computer which will delay frames to that 29.97 NTSC standard, thus, once again - shoot and edit @ 30FPS + 1/60SS (unless, of course, you're going to do some slo-mo, in which case you'll shoot @ 60FPS + 1/125SS.
If on youtube know that computers display at 29.97FPS, so... you might as well start shooting at the closest approximation = 30FPS, and adjust your shutter speed accordingly: 2X FPS = 1/60.
http://documentation.apple.com/en/cinematools/usermanual/index.html#chapter=2§ion=5&tasks=true
Furthermore, your NLE will probably limit a project's output, which again will be constrained by its final output source, most often being a computer or digital equivalent.
You may shoot in 24FPS + 1/50 shutter speed and edit @ 24FPS in the NLE, but odds are most people are going to see whatever it is on a computer which will delay frames to that 29.97 NTSC standard, thus, once again - shoot and edit @ 30FPS + 1/60SS (unless, of course, you're going to do some slo-mo, in which case you'll shoot @ 60FPS + 1/125SS.
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Right now I am just going to shoot some videos of stuff. Random stuff just to get a feel of it. And I have Sony Movie Studio Platinum 12.0. But I have only used it once and I didn't like it. (editing is hard)
Love it.
Hate it.
"If you can't be with the one you love, love the one you're with."
Deal widdit, home-fry.Pull up that miserable fat-bastard POS NLE and see what settings options it gives you.
If parameters include something like DSLR @ 30FPS then that's what you wanna start using.
Also note the pixel aspect ratio is set to "square."
FWIW, after I bought and loaded my Adobe Premiere Elements 10 I used it once, hated its guts, rage quit it for about a year, then manned up and started using it.
It's fine.
Does pretty much what I need as I pine away for weenie little things the previous NLE provided. Whatever.
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75-300mm lens is not very ideal for movie purposes, I could not manage using that kind of lens.
I have 17-70mm lens myself and most of the time I do not use 70mm at all, but of course this depends of your style.
DSLR cameras are great and they are not so hard to learn after all so good luck
I have 17-70mm lens myself and most of the time I do not use 70mm at all, but of course this depends of your style.
DSLR cameras are great and they are not so hard to learn after all so good luck
75-300mm lens is not very ideal for movie purposes, I could not manage using that kind of lens.
I have 17-70mm lens myself and most of the time I do not use 70mm at all, but of course this depends of your style.
DSLR cameras are great and they are not so hard to learn after all so good luck
Thanks!
No real problems with it, but it does have a tendency to make your camera a little buggy. Nothing serious/permanent, but personally I've never been confident enough in it to use it on anything important.
I actually wouldn't recommend cinestyle for a beginner. If you're not good at color grading, or specifically trying to learn, you'll get better results out of using one of the standard color profiles with contrast turned down. It's flat, but not aggressively so, and will produce a good looking image that doesn't require a lot of massaging later in post. I see a lot of stuff out there shot by people who clearly chose an aggressively flat profile because they thought they needed to, not because they knew what to do with it, and the results are often worse than if they'd stuck with something standard.
That's not entirely accurate. Computer displays (well, LCD displays, but that's pretty much the standard) typically run at 60hz, not 29.97FPS - refresh rate and frame rate are two different things.
It's true that displaying 24fps video on a 60hz display requires some slightly uneven playback of frames, but visually the impact isn't hugely significant. It's also very similar to the motion cadence we're all use to from decades of watching film-originated material on broadcast television.
The slight visual impact is far less than the psychological difference between 24p and 30p, so I personally wouldn't choose 30p just to improve playback on youtube. Choose 24p if you're looking for a more film-like motion, 30p if you want more of a video look. Additionally, 24p will generally encode more cleanly at low bit rates (20% less frames to encode) so it may end up looking better on youtube than a 30p source, depending of course on the amount of motion/detail in the shot. It also may encode cleaner in camera, and the lower shutter speed gives you a slight boost in exposure.
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I advise against shooting double shutter speed, ramp it up a bit, my fav shutter speed is in the 70's, also as for shooting flat, do not turn the sharpness all the way down like some people may mention, yes you can increase sharpness but I find background objects start to be affected really badly in terms of quality, I think I have it two notches to the left.
Also try using the marvel film style, Iv heard its interesting.
I would highly recommend getting either the samyang 14mm (my fav at the moment) or the 35mm as your next lens
Also try using the marvel film style, Iv heard its interesting.
I would highly recommend getting either the samyang 14mm (my fav at the moment) or the 35mm as your next lens