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How would I create A Muzzle Flash Light in the Dark?

B

bigBiscuit728

Hello, so I'm helping a friend with a project and he asked me an interesting question. For one of his shots, he wants it to be dark, but a muzzle flash (gun shot) to go off. Sort of like the first shot here: http://youtu.be/6Hpl5jkH454?t=26s

Now, in that video they used actual blanks. We plan to do everything in Post. My dilemma is how do I light the background and surrounding area if we're going to be in the dark (at least digitally). My idea was to decrease the gamma digitally (or make it dark anyway possible) then use a mask around the subject or area and bring the gamma value back to the default value (for a quick second of course). Does this sound like a logical idea? If you find any good tutorials are articles on the matter please point me to them, thanks.
 
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You could get a powerful work light (or work lights) like this:

be94fe1a-1c2f-4310-8439-656c2e41f954_400.jpg


Then you can either

1: Build a dimmer

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w6QlrTXwdNE

Or....

2: Turn it on and off really fast.
 
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You might want to check out the video copilot tutorial on simulated lighting: http://www.videocopilot.net/tutorials/simulated_lighting/ and one on day for night http://www.videocopilot.net/tutorials/day_to_night_conversion/

The day for night one may give you some different ways to darken the scene.

When doing the flashes, don't forget to blend the muzzle flash with the shot (usually I choose add) and to add highlights and shadows that fit the scene. Also remember the inverse-square law when dealing with light.

Also keep an eye out so you don't remove or exaggerate the grain when you darken/lighten the image.
 
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→ What camera are you using?
Some cameras do dark pretty good (large sensor), some don't (small sensor).

You may be better actually shooting this in fairly decent light then darkening it in post.
→ What NLE program are you using?

Here's a frame grab of one of those muzzle flashes:

20130828MuzzleFlash-_zps82149533.png


→ Were you planning on setting up your shot framing and composition pretty much exactly like this, or somewhat different?

Adding ambient muzzle flash might be added as simple as using a large flashlight.
 
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Wow, thanks for the replies everyone. I wasn't expecting to get this many so quickly. Nice Community :)

mad_hatter said:
A camera flash could work well, especially if you can diffuse it a little. Just get someone to take a photo just at the moment the shot is fired.
Click to expand...

This was exactly what I was thinking of doing in case I couldn't do it in post. I'll probably resort to this as a backup.



rayw said:
→ What camera are you using?
Some cameras do dark pretty good (large sensor), some don't (small sensor).

You may be better actually shooting this in fairly decent light then darkening it in post.
→ What NLE program are you using?

Here's a frame grab of one of those muzzle flashes:

20130828MuzzleFlash-_zps82149533.png


→ Were you planning on setting up your shot framing and composition pretty much exactly like this, or somewhat different?

Adding ambient muzzle flash might be added as simple as using a large flashlight.
Click to expand...


I'm not sure of what camera will be used. My best bet is a Canon dslr, either the 2ti or 3ti. I think darkening it in post will definitely be the way to do it, and as far as framing, I'm not entirely sure on that either. I'll have to ask the director.


jmoschner said:
You might want to check out the video copilot tutorial on simulated lighting: http://www.videocopilot.net/tutorials/simulated_lighting/ and one on day for night http://www.videocopilot.net/tutorials/day_to_night_conversion/

The day for night one may give you some different ways to darken the scene.

When doing the flashes, don't forget to blend the muzzle flash with the shot (usually I choose add) and to add highlights and shadows that fit the scene. Also remember the inverse-square law when dealing with light.

Also keep an eye out so you don't remove or exaggerate the grain when you darken/lighten the image.
Click to expand...

Thanks! This might be exactly what I'm looking for.

ChimpPhobiaFilms said:
You could get a powerful work light (or work lights) like this:

be94fe1a-1c2f-4310-8439-656c2e41f954_400.jpg


Then you can either

1: Build a dimmer

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w6QlrTXwdNE

Or....

2: Turn it on and off really fast.
Click to expand...

Yep, that's a good idea. I'll use it as a backup. It's convenient too because I do a few halogens lying around too.
 
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mad_hatter said:
A camera flash could work well, especially if you can diffuse it a little. Just get someone to take a photo just at the moment the shot is fired.
Click to expand...

Depends on the camera and settings used for filming. Flash duration is usually much faster than the frame is scanned, so a flash will usually cause a brightness in part of the frame (like the top half), looking like video tearing from bad synching. You need a flash that discharges slower, and that's usually the opposite of what camera flashes are designed to do. And old flash cube would be awesome!

If you use a flash, you should snoot it and use at full power to get a longer duration, aimed from the destination of the firearm to get the shadows right. (They'll still be wrong, but that's okay since it's only 1/24th of a second at most).
 
Last edited:
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stef said:
Depends on the camera and settings used for filming. Flash duration is usually much faster than the frame is scanned, so a flash will usually cause a brightness in part of the frame (like the top half), looking like video tearing from bad synching. You need a flash that discharges slower, and that's usually the opposite of what camera flashes are designed to do. And old flash cube would be awesome!

If you use a flash, you should snoot it and use at full power to get a longer duration, aimed from the destination of the firearm to get the shadows right. (They'll still be wrong, but that's okay since it's only 1/24th of a second at most).
Click to expand...

ChimpPhobiaFilms said:
Do you have a camera? What is your budget?
Click to expand...

Our budget is pretty much non existent. This is just a short film for college. And actually, I think I got it working. I went about darkening up a dimly lit shot, then applying a large feathered mask over the subject and surrounding wall right as the muzzle flashes go off.
 
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muzzle flash

Hi there, given your budget restrictions I would shoot day for night, and use an action essentials muzzle flash. As you mentioned, simply use hard and soft edge masks to simulate the light bounce. Alternatively, take a flash photo graph from the position of the muzzle, and use the lumanance keyer to extract a matte for a light bounce that can be graded and masked further if required. Hopethat helps.
 
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NUQC9-PH_KA

On 0:44 we used a flashlight (Canon Speedlight) fired from next to the camera (due to the position and aim of the gun) towards the gun.
In Photoshop I drew a bright pointy star to serve as a muzzle flash.
I heard nobody complain it's a fake muzzle flash ;)

Shot on an EX1R, so I also had to fix some flashbanding.
Shot on 1/25 at 25fps or 1/120 at 120fps to make sure the shutter couldn't miss the flashlight.

About taking a picture at the moment the flash goes off:
using the camera (taking the pictures) to trigger the flash, or use a tripod and longer exposure time to catch the flash easier.

About using in camera as a backup for post: I would consider post the backup option.
If you can do it in camera it's less work.

Sometimes you don't need to see the muzzle flash at all. The flash and the sound will create the illusion.
 
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