Horror scene - DSLR Noise in light, none in dark

Im definitely still learning, I have spent hours learning shutter speed, aperture and iso; however I'm still bad at it. I have a DSLR, nikon d3100. My problem is a noise issue. I've managed to get no noise at all in low light at an ISO of 100, however, if dark areas are right next to some light, the light is noisy while the dark areas are not. Here's a exact picture to describe my issue.

http://oi40.tinypic.com/prajt.jpg

I've messed with these settings and got similar results: shutter speeds around 1/30 and 1/50, white balance metering etc, manual focus with stabilization and tryed both aperture low (3.5 is lowest) and high. ISO usually always low around 100. Not sure what I'm doing wrong, I shoot in manual mode. Help!
 
Well, there's a few things:

1. 100 ISO is probably too low. I'm not as familiar with Nikons but you should be able to push between 600 and 800 ISO without too much noise. Some people run their low end Canons up to 1600 ISO when needed and the 5DmkII can do even more with better results. This is one of your main adjustments when it comes to brightness. All ISO is changing is gain, it's either brighter or darker (with noise past a certain point).

2. Leave your shutter at double your frame rate, or as close as your camera allows. This is the 180 degree shutter rule. Since you're definitely still learning, follow this rule. Don't even worry about why at this point, just do it. Once you get the hang of your camera more and can set up the image with ISO and Aperture then start adjusting this to see how it affects the image.

3. f/3.5 is probably too dark for shooting in a low light situation. It's not exactly letting a lot of light through the lens. You'll need a faster lens if you want to shoot low light with low ISO. You can rent if you can't afford to buy.

4. Your shot is indoors. Light it! Just because the scene is supposed to take place with the lights off doesn't mean you actually shoot it that way. You light the room to get details and adjust the camera and even the image in post to make it look dark.

5. Your white balance is off. If your indoors with incandescent tungsten fixtures, be sure to either set your temperature to 3200K or the indoor tungsten preset. It's usually labeled with a little edison bulb. While this won't affect your noise or image brightness, it will affect your color and your ability to adjust it in post.

6. You might try to lower the contrast in camera. If your camera is shooting in a traditional picture mode it could be making the darks even darker. That's what they call shooting "neutral". It might look too flat or gray in camera, but it gives you a lot of pixel information to really adjust the image in post.

Good luck man! Don't forget, capture small bits of video with different settings. Slate it with paper or a marker board so you know what shot is what when you look at it on your computer. As you get better results, share them!
 
Set the white balance to indoor/tungsten - agreed
Add light to the scene - agreed, kind of...

100 ISO should be getting you a much cleaner image than you're seeing. What I'm looking at in that image is color noise, which may not be in all the channels, as the WB is off, it's possible it's just in one channel where it's being amped up or struggling to compensate too much by the shifted white.

Note the Blue channel:
R
RED.jpg
G
Green.jpg
B
Blue.jpg

Pulling that back to the right balance in camera will give you the best data to work with later. In film, it was best to get the look you wanted in camera... and you had the wonderfully analog latitude to do so. In digital, we are quantizing the data. If it occupies only a small portion of the white/black spectrum, it'll push/pull it to the even smaller range of the quantized digital data. It's posterizing the noise, but as it's only happening in the blue channel badly, the resulting image looks weird and we don't know specifically why until we examine the component pieces.

It may be terribly geeky, but REALLY take the time to know how light (analog wavy things) is being converted into a limited set of numbered intensity values.

Binary 101 (that's a little math pun for the folks who know):
1-bit = one digit which can be a 0 or a 1
2-bit = two digits which can each be a 0 or a 1

- In decimal (base 10), the right digit is the "ones" place, the next is the "tens" place as each digit can contain 10 possible values (0-9)... 18 = 10 + 8, 23 = 20 + 3....

- In Binary (base 2), the right digit is the "ones" place, the next is the "twos" place, the next would be the "fours" place and doubling each time thereafter.

Decimal / 2-bit Binary comparisons:

D 0 = B 00 (0 twos +0 ones)
D 1 = B 01 (0 twos +1 ones)
D 2 = B 10 (1 twos +0 ones)
D 3 = B 11 (1 twos +1 ones)

To get to D4, we need to add another digit, making it a 3-bit value... Final Cut Pro uses 8-bit per channel of RGB color, giving a total possible of 256 shades of gray per channel (D 0-255 or B 00000000 - 11111111)

If I have a 8-bit ramp of gray values that starts at black (0) on the left and goes to white (255) on the right -- stuffing that into a 1-bit representation (worst case scenario, everything 127 and down suddenly = 0, everything above it = 1) would show the left half of the gradient as black, and the right half as white with a hard line in the middle. a 3-bit representation of it would add a light gray and dark gray in-between them (4 shades, 0-3).

Light doesn't come quantized, it's a continuous ramp of nearly infinitely small frequency variation from one shade to the next on the way up the ramp... Mapping this to 256 colors is just enough to avoid serious banding, so long as you are matching black to black and white to white and matching everything else relatively evenly throughout the ramp... as soon as you skew that one way or the other, it starts to do icky things, like making shorter steps on the left and stretching out the steps on the right if you've underexposed, making the top seem to have stair steps in the gradation changes.

Throw on top of this the compression that is added to try to make the file sizes smaller and you can get a mess.

White balancing makes the lightest part of each color channel (RGB) = white, and helps balance them so as not to have them do odd things separate from one another. Too dark is still too dark though.

In this case, I'd add that you should pull your exposure up a bit (In this case, by increasing the ISO after white balancing) to map the whites back up toward digital white and stretch the gradation of the image across the full digital ramp you have access to. This will capture the cleanest out of the box, then do what you will to it in post.
 
Here's one possibility (Software is Apple Shake):
I separated the RGB Channels, blurred them ever so slightly to remove pixel level grain in each (and more heavily in the blue to get rid of the block level grain)... then expanded the blue channel to hit the white point again and recombined...

Screen Shot 2013-05-19 at 1.25.24 AM.jpg

This could be added as a color layer over the red channel as a sharp focus ideal of the scene to render a slightly better image that still has sharp detail although the color info may be a little soft.
 
I think I have the answer, but its a lot less complex than the others. The D3100 does not let you have full manual control and will always do things to the shutter speed and ISO to essentially make it an aperture only mode. I know this because I used to have a D3100 and used old manual lenses with it - even when using a manual lens I could see the camera in live view changing the shooting conditions itself.

Easy way to test that out is by fully opening up your aperture, set the shutter to 1/50 and then point it out of a window in the day time and pan into a room, then back to the window. You'll see the lighting conditions change - the window should be blown out and heavily overexposed, but it will cut the shutter down so it will be properly exposed.

My girlfriend now has my old D3100 and she tried it in low light and it boosted the ISO.
 
Micster, having no actual experience with the camera in question, I'll deer to your explanation... mine's just theory -- and practical experience trumps that every time.
 
Here's one possibility (Software is Apple Shake):
I separated the RGB Channels, blurred them ever so slightly to remove pixel level grain in each (and more heavily in the blue to get rid of the block level grain)... then expanded the blue channel to hit the white point again and recombined...

tracktour_royaltyfree.jpg

This could be added as a color layer over the red channel as a sharp focus ideal of the scene to render a slightly better image that still has sharp detail although the color info may be a little soft.

Thank you very much, great information. I tried to understand it as much as possible. So the problem may be the blue thats creating color noise? When I'm in incandescent I can actually change the "A-B and G-M." Not sure if thats related to what you're saying? Also, what micster was saying, I tested out his theory and uploaded a result. The camera does indeed try to fix itself in radical changes. However, not completely sure thats related to color noise? Here's the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wvcg6YP6gdI&feature=youtu.be
 
I think I have the answer, but its a lot less complex than the others. The D3100 does not let you have full manual control and will always do things to the shutter speed and ISO to essentially make it an aperture only mode. I know this because I used to have a D3100 and used old manual lenses with it - even when using a manual lens I could see the camera in live view changing the shooting conditions itself.

Easy way to test that out is by fully opening up your aperture, set the shutter to 1/50 and then point it out of a window in the day time and pan into a room, then back to the window. You'll see the lighting conditions change - the window should be blown out and heavily overexposed, but it will cut the shutter down so it will be properly exposed.

My girlfriend now has my old D3100 and she tried it in low light and it boosted the ISO.

I did exactly what you said and uploaded a video of a similar result.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wvcg6YP6gdI&feature=youtu.be

You are right that the camera tries to readjust itself from dark to light. So basically what you're saying, it's the camera and I'm screwed.
 
I did exactly what you said and uploaded a video of a similar result.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wvcg6YP6gdI&feature=youtu.be

You are right that the camera tries to readjust itself from dark to light. So basically what you're saying, it's the camera and I'm screwed.

Pretty much. Is it brand new? See if you can get a return or a trade for credit somewhere against the D3200. That's the updated model released a year after and does not do this. It also has an external microphone port in its favour.
 
Add more light, then drop the exposure in the camera. This will allow you to use a faster (smaller) ISO and get less grain. The noise is still there in the blacks, it's just clipped to black most likely.
 
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