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Help with removing camera shake

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block_bust

I am thinking of filming a Civil War Re-enactment to get footage for a film of the Civil War genre that I am planning. The problem is that the last time I recorded an event like this, the footage was so shaky to a point that even image stabilization from my NLEs could not fix it. I would look very awkward if I brought along a tripod or steadicam. They probably aren't allowed at these events either. What should I do?:no:
 
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If your camera has an optical image stabilizer, use it. If you can get away with attaching a monopod to your camera, while not extended, it can act as a lightweight steadicam. If you need to be walking or running with the camcorder, and you can get another person to help, maybe you could mount the camera in the center of a 6 foot 2x4 with one of you on each end. That will smooth out the running, somewhat. Be sure to practice as much as you can ahead of time.

Why would an event not allow a steadicam?

Doug
 
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If you have (or can get) access to after effects, you could try the stabilization technique demonstrated here: http://www.videocopilot.net/tutorials.html?id=105

It removes the camera shake, and then reintroduces some of it.. this keeps the fluid organic feel there, without the massively jarring motion -- and also significantly decreases the amount of cropping that needs to be done to prevent black edges from showing.

I imagine the same kind of thing could be done with other compositing programs, but I use AE, and the video co pilot tutorials are great. :)
 
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I'm with IndieTalk here. Nothing can fix the motion blur that is going to come from camera movement, and only so much can be done to steady the image. As Will mentioned, you get black borders you'll have to crop off, thereby reducing the image resolution, on top of having a blurry image. What really matters is getting it right in camera. I lug around a 26 pound tripod almost everywhere I go ... even to the bathroom ... ok, maybe not everywhere.

There are some lightweight, simple steadicam options that will do a lot to cut down on camera movement. I made one of those $12 steadicams, and I must say it works very well with my consumer camera. It's not quite as good with a 5 pound camera, but what can you expect for $12.

Doug
 
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If you're able to shoot progressive frame footage (either 30p or 24p) you'll be more likely to get better results with stabilization. Like these guys are saying though, you should be more worried about what your footage looks like, than what you look like while shooting it.

Just for fun, as it's more or less relevant to this thread, here's some before & after footage from Road Kill..

Before & After, side by side (15mb)
Stabilized, without zooming & cropping (16mb)

I've replaced the ordinarily black background with bright red in this second example, so it really stands out and illustrates just how much the footage has to be zoomed to keep a full image in the frame. The final result was zoomed to 120%... Thankfully, the HDV footage had WAY more resolution than needed for the final SD output format, so I could have pushed in further with results of acceptable quality.

My thought is, if you know you're going to be in a shooting environment that is likely to leave you with footage needing stabilization, shoot progressive frame, with as high a resolution as possible. The progressive frames make tracking for the stabilization much more accurate, and the resolution -- obviously -- allows you to do the digital zoom without excessive quality loss.
 
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I'm not sure what you're using for motion tracking, but I know that if you use after effects you can set a nice place of high contrast to track and then if the action gets insanely shakey you can shuffle the footage to the place where the mark went off and re-put it where it needs to be.

other then that combine these methods :

1) When you can stand still, do. While standing still make sure to make a triangle out of your two hands holding the camera and put your elbows against your torso to help steady everything(don't use the LCD, use the viewfinder). Or as suggested use a MONOPOD(not a tripod, as a monopod is much better suited for quick use where you'll need to set up and film quick).

2) when you have to move, move enough that it will look good as a cut point.

3) Never move the camera! think of everything in pivot points. Pivot your entire body left or right smoothly to follow action that you want to cover that is moving out of shot. Pivot at the hips smoothly to go up and down with action.....this is all if your not using a monopod. If using a monopod you should still think in smooth pivots though, but of course they don't involve you gyrating at the hips or anything lol.

If you want to get fancier you either need to get equipment that can assist you.....or learn to dance. seriously! You need grace, balance, flexibility, and tempo to do anything advanced with a camera....and without alot of practice at something like dancing you'll never move beyond the basics without making the footage look horrible.

One last thing you can do all low core is head to the hardware store and build a T section onto the bottom of your camera so that one section goes straight down towards the floor and at the bottom is some weight...then theres the other part that makes it a T which you hold.....the weight/pivot forces a smooth movement....look it up on google with keywords like "Home made steadicam" for in depth plans.
 
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