HELP! need help with 35mm stock, developing and editing cost

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daveyboy

hiya i was wondering if any one can help me as i've searched the net and i don't seem to be able to find anywhere which will give me the above information (seems strange)
Basically i'm looking to make a 35mm Film using about 10,000ft of 35mm Film Stock. I was wondering how much you guys think this would cost.
Also i would like to know the rough general costs of devloping this also. Just the negative as a whole not the dailies etc.
And also if anyone knows what do i u think i would edit somethnig like this on an Avid? what are the types of costs for editing system.
Thanks a lot for your help
Dave
 
For new 35mm film, it runs around .50 a foot, so you're talking $5000 for film stock. Fuji is a little cheaper. You can buy short ends which is leftover film from other productions, and save big bucks. It can run between .08 - .28 a foot depending on the length of the loads.

Processing runs between .10 - .15 per foot. I use Crest National out of LA and get .10 a foot. They're a good lab, but some cheap labs re-use chemicals, so cheap isn't always the best way to go.

Editing: If you want to go back to film, you'll need a Non-linear edit system which will allow you track your keycode numbers if you want to have a final print. Avid and Final Cut Pro will do this, amoung others. You'll need to transfer the original film to video which can run as low as $175/hr and up to $500/hr. depending on types of machines used. There are some that top $1000/hr. Plan on transfering about around 20 min. of film per hour which you film would run around 3-4 hours. If you're only going to a film print, then you could go with a one light transfer which will cost a lot less. If you think you'll use the video transfer as a final viewing version, then you'll have to do full color corrections, again 20 min. per hour.

Cost of editing: Rental, can run as cheap as $250/day for AVID. If you buy, you could probably get an AVID DV Express system for around $2000-2500. Final Cut in the same range. You'll need a operator which will run as cheap a $0/day and up.

So you see the costs add up.

Good luck.

Scott
 
Hiya thanks for input, how about if i used 16mm camera and Blow the print up to 35mm, would that work out cheaper do you think. If so does anyone know how much that would cost.
I have about 35k for the project. What do you think my best option would be.
p.s. It needs to end up on 35mm as it's going to be a Dogma film.
Thnaks guys
Dave
 
You can go Super-16. You'll need about half the film stock and it runs around .30 ft. The rest of the cost will run about the same.

A Super-16 blow-up of a 10 min. film will run $3000-5000. That's a rough estimate.

I have to ask, is this going to be a festival film? If so, you could do a good video transfer, cut that and submit it to festivals, then if you get accepted, then you could do the blow-up. You have to have everything ready go for the blow up.

The final option is to go Standard 16mm. Cameras are plentiful and getting cheaper by the day.

Scott
 
OK i need to have it end on up on 35mm as that's one of the Dogma Rules.
Basically it has to be handheld, i can't use lighting and no props etc (harsh rules, but!)
What i'm wondering is if i use 16mm will it be cheaper in the long run than shooting on 35mm, or will the transfer to 35mm cost as much as if i just shot on 35 (if that makes sense)
Basically i'm looking for the cheapest option either 16mm or 35mm. I don't want to use Video or Digital.
Thanks for your help
iahve a bidget of $35k
Dave
P.S has anyone seen the film Pi? i was wondering what that was shot on as it was made for $60,000 and looks really good.
 
Why don't you do a detailed budget on paper. This is the absolute best way to answer your question. All of the costs you will encounter can be found on the Internet, or by calling rental houses and labs.

Good luck. :)
 
"Pi" was shot on 16mm B&W reversal stock. I'd guess 400 ASA.

I'd say go for 35mm because the blow-up cost can really eat your budget. To save money you could buy short ends. Also, I like the idea of being able to shoot anywhere with a 500 or even 800 ASA film and if you'd have to push the stock a stop, the 35mm wouldn't grain up on you too much. The only draw back to 35mm is camera size and weight, but there are a couple of lite weight choices for 35mm with the Aaton and Movie Cam SL.

Because of the Dogma Rules the money you save by not having lights and grip stuff should cover the extra cost of 35mm.

Let me know if you need a shooter because I've always been interested in shooting a Dogma film. I feel like several of the regular low budget films I've shot were halfway to Dogma rules anyway.

Good luck and if you have any questions, keep asking away.

Scott
 
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