Lenses for iPhone

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Bpgolferguy

Hi there! First post for me, hoping to get some good info from the experts!

I am getting ready to embark on a feature using only an iPhone. However, I am going to fit it with lenses so I can achieve some bit a professional look. My question revolves around the lenses. Just for some background, I am using a product that will allow lenses to be fitted to the phone. Also, I have a DOF adapter so that the SLR's will actually work on it.

The two that I have currently are a Vivitar 28mm f2.5 wide angle and a Takumar 55mm f2. These are both the old fashioned m42 lenses (got them from my dad). From what I've read it sounds like everyone says 35mm is the way to go, but is having a 28 and 55 ok, or even better? Also, do yo see anything wrong with using these two lenses, or possibly any better solutions I may want to look into? I'm on a shoestring budget, so the cheaper the better.

Thanks for the advice, looking forward to hearing from you and reading about your projects!
 
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Hi there, welcome to IT. :)

Depending on how the adapter handles it, the lenses you stick on the front will be modifying the fov that the phone lens has by default.

For example, you will notice that the WA and tele adapter lenses for dslrs have a numerical multiplier stamped on the front of them, such as .45x or 2x. When screwed onto a given lens, they change the focal length by that factor. So for example a 2x adapter lens will double the focal length (a 100mm lens becomes 200mm), whereas a .35x will reduce it to around a third (ie a 100mm lens would become a 35mm).

As I know bugger all about your lenses, adapter, or the iphone's lens/crop factor, there's no way for me to tell what final focal length/fov is resulting from your setup. If the adapter you've got corrects for all the sciency skullduggery that goes on in the chain, then ignore this post and get filming!

Assuming that you really are getting 28mm and 55mm out of your two primes, I wouldn't worry about not having 35mm. 28mm is a nice wide look, and 55mm is a nice 'normal' fov. While you may find yourself having to make compromises with regards to composition at times, you could easily make a film with those two focal lengths alone.

PS Can you hit me up with some links for the adapter please, as it sounds like something one of my phonetographer buddies might like to play with. Ta! :)
 
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honestly depending on the version of iPhone it may not be super necessary..i only say this because i have shot a short with no adaptations but by tweaking with the grading and other things i pulled out really high quality shots..mind you I'm no expert but when it comes to getting good shots that i can do lol..just my take on it..
 
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Thanks for the replies! First off, here is the DOF link from the product's kickstarter page I'll be using. I'm really excited about getting it and fitting these lenses to it. http://www.kickstarter.com/projects...3cdd7d9740362c4aa75&ref=backer_project_update

Honestly, I have no clue what to expect. Obviously in his demos for the product he's using the DOF adapter and canon lenses, but I've been in discussions with him about allowing the DOF adapter to accept m42 lenses. He believes it should work very well. Basically it'll just be trial and error for a few weeks after I get it to see how it works out. I also acquired a 35mm f3.5 Takura lens this afternoon via eBay, so no matter what I feel like something should work out between all of that. I'll let you know how it works.
 
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Really depends on what kind of feature, and how you are going to shoot it. But if you're shooting a feature, it would probably be best to shoot with - at least - a prosumer DSLR. I know people are going to chime in mentioning Searching for Sugarman, but that was PARTLY shot with an iPhone. Just a few shots.

You could probably save more money using a camcorder or DSLR since iPhones and other mobile devices tend to look horrible in low light.

Also, you have audio covered? :)
 
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Well, first off I have one. Don't have another camera. Second, why not?? I guess I should've mentioned I'll be using the Filmic Pro app so it won't be like I'm shooting with the iPhone video function itself. Between that app and the lenses I really think I should get something that is right up there with some other cinematic cams. I hope.
 
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Yes, lighting is one of my main concerns. I have also read several articles about lighting being the chief antagonist of iPhone filming. Once I get everything set up I'll get a better feel for how it's going to be. If need be, I'll start shining in the lights.

Yeah, audio is going to be recorded separately on a recorder.
 
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Bpgolferguy said:
Between that app and the lenses I really think I should get something that is right up there with some other cinematic cams. I hope.
Click to expand...

Yeah, sure, it's possible. With incredible cinematography, the iPhone can produce imagery that rivals DSLR (it's been done). But, when I say "incredible cinematography", I'm talking about stuff that requires lots of expensive lights, a sizeable crew, a great deal of time on set, and an experienced DP who really knows what they're doing. Do you have all of those things? :no:

If you were just making short films, I'd say have at it. Make a short film with whatever you have available. But a feature film is a whole other thing. Even if you literally spend nothing on production, it's such a HUGE investment of time that you'd be a fool not to spend a few hundred bucks for a better camera.

You can spend maybe a week-and-a-half, working at McDonalds, to earn enough money to buy a used DSLR that will be FAR easier to use and will surely get you better footage.

iPhones are for texting, googling, listening to music, and on the rare occasion -- making a phone call. Their video capabilities are best left to drunk people recording the antics of their drunk friends (or parents recording the antics of their young children, which is pretty much the same thing as drunk people recording the antics of their drunk friends). :D
 
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I don't see the iPhone going anywhere in the filmmaking/ pro videography world. While small cameras are on the rise, a machine that you call, text, and goof off on isn't something I see directors and DPs racing to. Small cameras are on the rise, but phones? :no:

You'll SAVE MONEY and WORK FASTER with a better camera, such as the T3i or G6.

Also, just a recorder for a feature isn't going to cut it. Visit this thread:

http://www.indietalk.com/showthread.php?t=49443
 
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Thanks for the advice. I'm going to wait and get all the pieces and parts and see what happens. I've also constructed a DIY steadicam, track dolly, and jib so I feel like I'm too far brainwashed into thinking this'll work like I think it will. Also, I'm hoping to partly ride the iPhone niche if I submit to any festivals. My vision comes before anything, so if I can't get it from this set up I'll look for other solutions.
 
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bpgolferguy - The shots in that demo vid look a fair bit longer than a standard 50mm fov. Your 28mm will therefore appear closer to the classic 35mm look then the 35mm you've just bought.

If you can stabilise the camera well and light the crap outta your scenes, I see no reason why you shouldn't get some good footage.

Have fun with it!
 
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Thank you for the info regarding the lenses. Yes, I'm thinking the 28mm may be the go to lens for most of this but we'll see. I think I have the right equipment to keep it steady. I built a version of the silver flyer steadicam that I will test out once I get the Beastgrip and get a lens on it so I can adjust the balancing and weight accordingly. My dolly design should work just fine as well. Don't laugh. I actually am using a garden hose (one of the heavy duty really smooth ones) as my track which will allow to lay it down any way I want. I bought two 50' hoses and cut off the connectors one end on each and bought a couple internal hose connectors that allow for a seamless join. Then, using the left over skateboard bearings I had bought to make the steadicam, I constructed small platform (big enough for the tripod to sit) and then attached the wheels to arms which then ran through the bearings and attached to the platform. This essentially created "floating wheels" that have about 3-4" of play either way when running on the hose track. This allows me to just lay the hose down and eyeball it close enough without having to put spacers every couple of feet so that the dolly stays on the track. Big time saver and also a much smoother ride if you ask me. I'm currently working on my job right now which I think should serve its purpose, too. Telescoping arm with a (smooth!) pan/tilt adjuster back at the control end.

Best part about all of this, because I'm using an iphone I can AirPlay mirror the screen back to my TV or MacBook so that I have an easy wireless field monitor so that I'm not having to try and get it all on the small screen of the phone. That's what I'm excited about. I've tested it, and with only about a 1/4 second delay it should do just fine. Of course that is a live feed. I can always play back the recording through AirPlay and see what the actual recoding looked like.

Lighting is definitely my second priority right there with the camera and lenses. Without the right light shooting with an iPhone and attached lenses will be all for none. But, as I know it always goes, sound is my number one priority. Now that I'm pretty well set with cam and lights I'm trying to find the best (but cheapest) solution. I know for a fact I'm not using anything that attaches to the phone. I think Rode has a decent one that attaches to the phone via the lightning jack, but I've got to record to an external device. I've read too many (and seen too many) indie films where sound destroyed a great story and cinematography. All because they didn't invest in good sound.
I think I'll be able to get my hands on one of the Zoom recorders some how. Does anyone have any recommendations for a decent (but again, cheap...$100 or less) shotgun mic? Our shot schedule we've come up with should allow for booming through the whole thing (except a couple scenes we'll either dub post production, or maybe use the Zoom's on board mic and hide it behind something around the actors).

Thanks again everyone for your comments!
 
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Here's what I don't get - you've said over in the audio thread that shooting on the iPhone isn't just a gimmick. Here though you're talking about using lenses and a 35mm adapter to shoot with - so what's the point of using the phone in that situation? Pretty much any video-capable device would work just as well, and I can't see how you can legitimately claim it was shot on a phone if it was really shot on 35mm still lenses and only the projected image was recorded on the phone (that's basically how the adapter works).

It's like a band going into a recording studio to record an album, but instead of sending the audio to tape or a computer they just put a phone next to the studio monitors and hit record. The only reason to do that is if you want to claim it was made on a phone as a marketing gimmick.

If you want to shoot a film on an iPhone why not do so, and try to work within it's limitations (or try to use them to your advantage) rather than essentially bypassing it with additional equipment?
 
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Again, don't have access to an unlimited budget. I'm making this almost with just what I already have. If you read in the audio thread I am willing to put up about $200 for sound equipment and then that's pretty much the budget. I started with the story that I have finally perfected. Then I looked to see what I have. An iPhone 5 and some m42 lenses from my dad. After looking online I saw that it can be done, so that's where I'm at.

It's not a gimmick. I really have no choice. I can't afford going to get a DSLR like everyone says is so much easier. Instead, similar to your post, everyone says do the best with what you have. If fixing my lenses on the iPhone will give me the best cinematic look then that's what I'll work toward.
My focus now is going to be a vibrating DOF adapter. After speaking with someone very knowledgable on the topic, he said a vibrating adapter is miles above a static and it's really not that much more. About $50 for the whole adapter. So that's the direction I'm going now.

I guess if I want to sacrifice the sound equipment then I can take that $200 and maybe save another $200 and try and get a decent used DSLR, but that will just push back my schedule goals. And as I said before, sound is the most important thing to me....at least up to what I can afford.
 
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